92% of exhibitors at the next womenswears show come from outside of France

The Tranoï trade show will be back in vibrant Paris during the next womenswear fashion week, just over a month after its menswear edition was held in mid-January at the Gaîté Lyrique theatre in the French capital. The forthcoming show will be held at Palais Brongniart, which will host 180 womenswear exhibitors from Thursday February 29 to Sunday March 3.

Tranoï is Paris’s leading fashion trade show, and its next session will be staged in parallel with Paris Fashion Week Women. Of its 180 exhibitors, the vast majority, 92% (as opposed to 80% for last October’s previous womenswear session) will come from outside of France, confirming the event’s appeal for overseas brands. They will be presenting to buyers their ready-to-wear and accessories collections for the Fall/Winter 2024-25 season.

Foreign collectives, showrooms centre-stage

Several designer collectives from outside France will be exhibiting at Tranoï, like Canex, which will spotlight African fashion design via a selection of 20 exhibitors. Among them, South African designers Rich Mnisi and David Tlale, Nigerian slow-fashion brand Abiola Olusola, whose collections are produced in Lagos, and Ivory Coast label Kente Gentlemen, with its tailored items enhanced by ethnic motifs.

Five emerging South Korean labels will be represented by KFashion82, the B2B marketplace developed by the Shinsegae department store chain (which operates 11 branches in South Korea): Cahiers, which will fête its 10th anniversary this year, and shows at Seoul Fashion Week; Daily Mirror, with its de-structured wardrobe; the label by designer Hannah Shin, a big fan of cutting-edge technology; genderless label Lie, by Creative Director Lee Chung Chung; and Tripleroot, a label characterised by a romantic style.

The pavilion showcasing South Korean fashion will also include a curated selection of four brands backed by promotion agency Gyunggi Fashion Creative Studio. Among them Kimoui, with its highly original, colourful knitwear, and Arts de Base, with its asymmetric dresses accented by myriad belts.

Like last year, a pavilion will showcase Peruvian fashion, featuring eight labels selected by Promperu, the promotional agency of the Peruvian trade ministry. They all share a focus on local craftsmanship and heritage textiles, like Ana G, the label by designer Ana Maria Guiulfo, with its range of artistic, hand-painted dresses, affordable luxury label Susan Wagner, with its oversize knitwear, and high-end label Kero Design, which produces its sustainable alpaca garments in the town of Puno.

Several international showrooms are also exhibiting at Tranoï. Tudoo (based in Guangzhou and Shanghai) will showcase seven Chinese labels, including newly created, streetwear-inspired Sugarsu. The Berlin Showroom will present five brands, among them Bulgarian-German designer Vladimir Karaleev, keen on textural fabric effects. The Seoul Showroom will showcase various emerging names from the contemporary Korean scene, like Playback, with its 80s inspired retro outerwear.

A highly contemporary selection

This Tranoï edition will be truly open to the world, with labels from the UK, like the brand by artist Simeon Farrar (founded in East London in 2004), which combines printed motifs with hand-painted designs, Spanish family company Mimii, big on ultra-colourful, oversize coats and accessories, and the label by designer Yekaterina Ivankova, whose passion is to revamp vintage clothes unearthed from the four corners of the world.

The show will feature a directional selection of 15 labels from France, including Parisian brand Possery (sister brand to ​Giorgio & Mario), which was part of the womenswear pre-fall curation at Tranoï’s January session; techno-couture designer Armine Ohanyan; Chambaret, a label specialised in jackets and coats made with upcycled fibres; Sunday Life, whose collections blend party and casual wear, founded in Paris by Chinese journalist Pei Chen; Incxnnue, which produces innovative handbags made with crushed oyster shells, styled by young designer Laura Deweilde; and Y Paris, a brand of genderless body jewellery launched 10 years ago by Yacine Challal. 

Accessories brands will account for over 40% of exhibitors, among them Gabriele Frantzen from Germany, with its furry handbags; Greek brand Amphora, whose sophisticated, sculptural leather goods are inspired by the country’s architectural heritage; ​the first, uber-contemporary jewellery  line by French-American designer Florence Moorhead; Provence-based brand Il Etait un fil, whose creations blend wickerwork and leather craftsmanship; and Hizen Jewelry, a Japanese producer distinctive for its delicate necklaces featuring blue ceramic pearls. 

The ad campaign for the upcoming edition of Tranoï captures a fleeting moment in the busy day of several elegant young women, pictured walking outside Palais Brongniart, the show’s iconic venue, by British fashion photographer Darrel Hunter, in the signature snapshot style of his street scenes and pics of fashionistas backstage at a show. 

The Tranoï womenswear show will be held from Thursday February 29 to Sunday March 3, 2024 at Palais Brongniart, 16 place de la Bourse, Paris