Thinking big is the American way, and Sotheby’s has taken that approach in organizing Visions of America, a multi-part, multi-media event that includes live and online sales. The auction house tapped designer Thom Browne as its curatorial partner, and he applied his avid collector’s eye to the lots on offer, selecting some of his favorites. One of these is a portrait of George Washington, inspired, perhaps, by the recent purchase of a house in upstate New York in which the United States’s first president once ate. In his capacity as the CFDA chairman, Browne also worked with Sotheby’s to include fashion in the mix via an online sale, CFDA: Defining American Style. This is a first for the CFDA and for Sotheby’s Americana week.
The auction includes work by 37 brands and CFDA members, which have been donated by the designers themselves. Vogue’s Anna Wintour and author/collector Amy Fine Collins have also contributed pieces to the sale, and the lots represent American fashion from the 1970s to the present day. “We wanted to make sure to cover a range of American fashion, not just the contemporary or not just the movie or celebrity; we wanted to represent different designers, both current and past,” said Cynthia Houlton, SVP, Global Head of fashion and accessories, a relatively new department.
A good number of garments appeared on the red carpet, whether at the CFDA Awards or the Met Gala. Browne contributed the unicorn ensemble Erykah Badu chose for the 2017 Soul Train Awards and Christian Siriano a red pouf dress Jennifer Lopez wore when accepting her 2020 People’s Choice prize. In auction terms, these pieces have “provenance,” a history of ownership, or in this case, a history of wearing, that resonates with collectors, and more generally with this era of celebrity fascination. Awards and events, notes Houlton, are “part of fashion culture.…When you think of those moments that people really remember, those are often the periods where people really have an association with the piece.” Adds CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, “the auctioned pieces are iconic, not only in their range and craftsmanship but also in the unique stories they tell, making them genuinely collectible.”
Houlton believes that the pieces in CFDA: Defining American Style are not likely to be bought to be worn, but of course that’s up to the winning bidder. Breaking with convention, no reserves (the price below which an item will not be sold) have been set. “We did not want to say ‘This piece is worth more than another piece,’ ” Houlton explains. “We want the market to determine the value.” That, too, is the American way. As is generosity: All proceeds will benefit the CFDA Foundation, which offers scholarships and mentoring to the next generation of American designers.
Alice + Olivia
Paris Hilton / Alice + Olivia neon Carnival Bash dress signed by Paris Hilton, 2021.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Altuzarra
Margot Robbie in custom Altuzarra dress at the 2017 Govenor’s Awards,
Photo: AFP / Getty Images
Velvet dress, 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Anna Sui
Kate Moss in Anna Sui, fall 1994 ready-to-wear
Photo: WWD / Getty Images
Faux fur jacket, 1994
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Bill Blass
Floral pantsuit, circa 1994
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Bob Mackie
Gown worn by Lauren Hutton in Revlon Ultima II ad from the resort 1982 collection.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Bode
Emily Adams Bode Aujla at the 2021 CFDA Awards.
Photo: Taylor Hill / FilmMagic
Embellished pant suit, 2021.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Calvin Klein by Zack Carr
Long white gown and black evening coat.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Carly Cushnie
H.E.R. at Variety’s Hitmakers Brunch, 2022.
Photo: Christopher Polk / Variety via Getty Images
Cushnie, fall 2019 ready-to-wear
Monica Feudi
Velvet pant suit, 2019
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Carolina Herrera
Black and white silk polka dot dress, 2014
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Christian Siriano
Jennifer Lopez in Christian Siriano at the 2020 People’s Choice Awards.
Photo: Todd Williamson / E! Entertainment / NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images
Red pouf dress, 2020
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Furstenberg, fall 2014 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg
Gold Ariel Armour wrap dress, 2014
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Donna Karan
Donna Karan, fall 2014 ready-to-wear
Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Red chiffon dress, 2014
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Geoffrey Beene
Long-sleeve babydoll dress, 1995
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Halston
Gray two-piece Ultrasuede skirtsuit from the fall 1973 Halston Boutique collection.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Isaac Mizrahi
Issac Mizrahi, resort 2011
Photo: Courtesy of Isaac Mizrahi
Black mini dress with white bow, 2011
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
James Galanos
Black floral print dress
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Jason Wu
Custom gown worn by Liu Wen for the Vogue China collections cover, 2013.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Khaite
Kendall Jenner in a custom Khaite gown at the 2022 CFDA Fashion Awards.
Photo: Gotham / Getty Images
White sequined dress, 2022
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Mary McFadden
Mary McFadden “Marii” pleated gown from the 1984 Medici Collection
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Michael Kors Collection
Michael Kors Collection, fall 2021 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Michael Kors Collection
Pant suit worn by Nicole Kidman for AMC Theatres, We Make Movies Better Campaign, September 2021.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Norma Kamali
Liberty Dress custom made for “The Embellishment of the Statue of Liberty” exhibition at Barneys New York, 30 June 30 through 1 August 1986, benefiting the Cooper-Hewitt Museum.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Oscar de la Renta
Anna Wintour in Oscar de la Renta at the 2021 Met Gala.
Photo: Theo Wargo / Getty Images
Floral gown, 2021
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Patrick Kelly
Stretch velvet animal print dress, 1989
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Pauline Trigère
Red wool cape, 1970s
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Proenza Schouler
Kim Kardashian in custom Proenza Schouler at the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards.
Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris / Getty Images
Embellished dress from the personal archive of Kim Kardashian.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Sandals from the personal archive of Kim Kardashian.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Public School
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne at the 2015 Met Gala.
Photo: Larry Busacca / Getty Images
Public School ensemble, 2015
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Shoes, 2015
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Ralph Lauren
Jessica Chastain’s green dress from the 2022 movie The 355, which she produced and acted in.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Ralph Rucci
Black tulle jacket with chestnut cashmere “Vibrations,” fall 2007
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Rick Owens
Rick Owens, fall 2023 ready-to-wear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Sequin dress, 2023
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Boots, 2023
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Stephen Burrows
Pink silk fringe top, c. 1970
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Thom Browne
Erykah Badu in Thom Browne at the 2017 Soul Train Awards.
Photo: Bryan Steffy / WireImage
Thom Browne, spring 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
White Chesterfield dress, 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Boots, 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Tom Ford
Tom Ford, fall 2023 ready-to-wear
Photo: Steven Klein / Courtesy of Tom Ford
Sequin dress, fall 2023 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Tommy Hilfiger
Winne Harlow in Tommy Hilfiger at the 2019 Met Gala.
Photo: Neilson Barnard / Getty Images
Corset and ball skirt, 2019
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Tory Burch
Tory Burch, spring 2020 ready-to-wear
Linen handkerchief dress, 2019.
Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Zac Posen
Julianne Hough in Zac Posen at the American Ballet Theatre, 2023.
Photo: Michael Loccisano / Getty Images
Zac Posen, fall 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Sunrise Coigney in Zero + Maria Cornejo at the 2013 Oscars.
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