Paris Fashion Week continues to dominate the menswear industry when it comes to trends and overall hype and the spring 2025 season was full of fantastic collections and abundant creativity.
A new take on relaxed luxury was the main idea with unstructured tailoring and ultra-light outerwear in pastel and earth tones. Voluminous pants and shorts were also key, especially the latter, creating some of the most interesting silhouettes.
A renewed sense of community could be the main non-fashion trend of the season. “From Rick Owens’ inclusive, awe-inducing, White Satin Army of Love to the closing of Dries Van Noten’s final runway show with a monumental mirrored disco ball spinning to the sounds of ‘I Feel Love,’ there was a resonant theme of unity and community seen throughout the show season in Paris,” said Neiman Marcus’ senior editorial director Bruce Pask.
But when it comes to fashion, the most common trend was relaxed tailoring. A sense of ease and comfort dominated the spring suiting story. Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director of fashion and accessories at Samaritaine Paris, described it as “the 9 to 5 outfit: the same outfit from morning to night.” Unconstructed blazers with soft shoulders were often paired with baggy pants or pleated shorts.
Shorts of all variations were mentioned by the largest number of retailers as the hot-ticket item. “We have seen shorts in almost every collection this season; whether it’s a tailored fit or a sporty take, they will be an item we need to talk to our customer about,” said Marta Gramaccioni, buying director of LuisaViaRoma. Bergdorf Goodman’s Young-Su Kim felt similarly. “Shorts were everywhere, particularly tailored styles with significant volume cut above the knee providing a dressed-up version of a classic,” she said.
Layers of ultra-thin and light outerwear added to the relaxed and easy dressing mood of the season, improving comfort in the soaring temperatures of late. “There has been an airy lightness to many of the shows, with multiple layers of diaphanous garments in looks that had graceful, fluid movement,” said Pask, highlighting Dries Van Noten and Hommé Plisse Issey Miyake.
When it came to color, most designers focused on soft and muted tones with a good amount of pastels mixed in, “colors like yellow, aqua green and violet,” Le Bon Marché’s Franck Nauerz pointed out. Blondie Tsang from Lane Crawford and Joyce was a fan of Lemaire’s tonal neutral looks, which she felt to be “very Parisian.”
Creative and inventive black-tie options added glam to a season full of easy, casual dressing. “There were new ideas around evening wear from Wales Bonner, Junya Watanabe, Amiri and others that modernized the approach through textiles and cut,” declared Bergdorf Goodman’s Kim.
Continuing from Milan, leather dominated, but with an increased focus on outerwear. “There was also an abundance of sleek leather jackets thanks to the favorable weather this season,” mentioned Jian DeLeon, the men’s fashion director at Nordstrom, pointing to Sacai’s options.