And while Monaci delle Terre Nere isn’t brand new, per se—the spectacular Relais & Chateaux property situated in the heart of the Etna National Park, overlooking its volcanic slopes (the “terre nere” of the name translates as “black lands”)—a recent overhaul has given one of Sicily’s most beloved and distinctive properties a new lease of life. The service and amenities here are very much five-star, with high-design rooms and villas scattered across its 60 acres of vineyards, olives groves, and rocky volcanic outcrop (yes, there is a golf buggy service to whizz you around if you don’t feel like stretching your legs that day) but the magic of Monaci delle Terre Nere lies in the various ways it rewards a more adventurous traveler.
Just take the head-spinning array of activities on offer. There are botanical walks through the property’s fragrant herb gardens and endless fields of fruit trees, or more ambitious hikes across the dried lava slicks of Mount Etna. (Naturally, bikes and e-bikes are also available for those seeking to explore the extraordinary natural wonders of the surrounding area.) You can laze by the pool, with its sweeping views across the foothills of the volcano and out to the glittering expanse of the Ionian sea, take a morning yoga session, or arrange an in-room treatment. On which note, those rooms: while the central building at Monaci is a striking 19th-century palazzo in a shade of dusty terracotta, each of the 27 rooms spread across the estate feels entirely individual, featuring everything from lava walls to a historic wine press to a cutting-edge floating bed, with an old-meets-new design scheme that somehow seams harmoniously together.
But the real standout at Monaci is the world-class food and wine offering. As a member of the pioneering farm-to-fork Slow Food movement, the main restaurant, Locanda Nerello, is worth visiting even if you aren’t staying at the property, with the majority of produce being either sourced from the farm itself or local (and we mean local) suppliers, resulting in spectacularly fresh updates and riffs on Sicilian staples. And finally, it wouldn’t be a proper stay here without sampling the wine, whose uniquely aromatic properties can be attributed to the volcanic terroir—and is, of course, cultivated on the property. Enjoy it by the pool on a balmy Sicilian afternoon, or at night while sitting outside of your villa, gazing up at the faint red glow of Etna’s crater.
And a host of well-established names, too
Aside from the ancient ruins and all that shopping, Taormina is also famous for the idyllic beaches that run across a series of bays clustered around the base of the town, easily reached by a cable car. But if you’re looking for front-row seats at these small slices of paradise, there are a handful of reliable places to stay, too. First, there’s Villa Sant’Andrea, a private villa converted by Belmond and overlooking the Bay of Mazzarò, with lush subtropical gardens first planted by its aristocratic owners in the 19th century and an atmospheric restaurant overlooking the water.