It’s a new day at John Varvatos.
Four years after the departure of its eponymous founder, the brand returned to New York Fashion Week with a fresh vision championed by its private equity owners Lion/Cayman and its management team that also oversees sister label AllSaints.
The brand took over a town house on the Upper East Side to showcase the spring men’s collection — titled “Kiln & Craft” — designed by new creative director Karl Aberg. “Since my first day with JV in 1999, we have always admired and sought the perfectly imperfect,” he said, adding that this season he drew inspiration from “the unfiltered artistry of ceramic craftsmanship” and aiming for a cleaner aesthetic.
The space was an ideal backdrop for a lineup heavy on tailored clothing complemented by more casual pieces such as open-stitch knit polos, cupro shirts and carrot trousers.
While the rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic that has long been a hallmark of the brand was still visible in several pieces, the spring collection contained a lot more. The suits were offered in a variety of fabrics and colors, not just the dark hues the line focused on in the past. Many of the tailored items were made by Lardini, the respected Italian manufacturer that recently rekindled its relationship with the brand.
An off-white tuxedo blazer paired with black dress trousers with a skinny stripe was among the standout outfits. It also served as a juxtaposition to a “hair on skin” biker jacket that was created in a natural color.
Key fabrics included linen blends, tropical wools and seersucker. Jacquard patterns on several of the looks provided texture and interest. Fits were slim but not skinny and even included boot-cut options this time around.
That’s not to say, however, that the collection completely veered away from its heritage. There were still leather and silky suede jackets but their aesthetic, and lighter color palette, felt new. “What I tried to infuse into this season, is bringing modernity into the collection, loosening the silhouettes, softening the color palette so it gives a contemporary feel,” Aberg said.
The presentation also featured bespoke watches from Triumph, which takes Rolexes and recreates them with diamonds and other embellishments, along with limited-edition eyewear and a new jewelry collection.
All told, Aberg and the team from AllSaints managed to maintain the John Varvatos heritage while updating it to meet the demands of today’s consumer.
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