Peter Sextus of Samsoe Samsoe on pursuing sustainability and shaping future growth strategies for the brand

Samsoe Samsoe is committed to honest and responsible growth. With over 600 employees and 47 international stores in 10 international markets spanning countries such as Denmark, France, Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, the UK, Sweden, and Norway, the Danish ready-to-wear label places sustainability at the forefront of its development. Originally founded in 1993 by brothers Klaus and Preben Samsøe as a jewellery boutique in central Copenhagen, the brand’s Scandinavian spirit took on a new direction in 2000 when it was acquired by Per-Ulrik Andersen and Peter Sextus. Their vision: to expand the business and establish Samsoe Samsoe as a contemporary fashion brand.

Among its most recent initiatives is “Golden Hour(s),” a visually-driven, relaxed presentation format that was launched during Copenhagen Fashion Week, where the brand employs about 100 people at its headquarters. Last summer, Samsoe Samsoe also introduced its temporary “Kaffebar” in the Danish capital, blending a café concept with an artistic installation. 

In this exclusive interview with FashionNetwork.com, CEO Peter Sextus discusses the brand’s future strategy, commitment to sustainability, and what’s next for Samsoe Samsoe.

FashionNetwork.com: What is the concept behind the Kaffebar project?

Peter Sextus: We started this pop-up style project in 2023 with initiatives in Paris and Copenhagen. It’s an innovative installation that allows us to connect with our community and promote denim recycling. It’s a way to showcase our collections, who we are as a brand, our beliefs, and our sustainability goals.

FNW: Speaking of sustainability, where does Samsoe Samsoe currently stand with its sustainable initiatives?

P.S: We’re doing everything we can within the limits of what’s possible in today’s world. We strive to move as fast as we can, while being financially responsible and maintaining our appeal to customers. We’ve done a lot of work on certifications and on clearly defining what we can actually achieve. It’s not possible to be 100% sustainable at the moment, but we’re determined to go as far as we can. We want to be the best in class, but without losing sight of the reality we’re in. From my perspective, I believe we’re succeeding. This is reflected in the transparency of our supply chain and the positive feedback we receive from our suppliers.

FNW: How do customers perceive these efforts? Are they a deciding factor when buying clothes?

P.S: I believe consumers appreciate these efforts, but the main question they face is whether they’re willing to pay for them. If we can present things with a fair value proposition, they’ll agree and pay the price. However, customers don’t want to bear a significantly higher cost for sustainability. On our end, we’re doing everything we can to offer the best value proposition in terms of sustainability at a price they’re willing to pay. In terms of perception, I think our urban customers are the ones most informed and willing to pay more for these sustainable features. I don’t see major differences based on regions, but rather on the type of consumer.

FNW: In recent years, Copenhagen Fashion Week has positioned itself as an industry leader in sustainability, but the requirements for participants are strict. How is Samsoe Samsoe handling this?

P.S: We need to understand these requirements through the lens of Scandinavian culture. Denmark has a very specific sustainable approach, heavily focused on green energy, responsible architecture and eco-design, cycling as transportation, taxes on cars, and government demands for carbon neutrality. We’re very much aligned with this Scandinavian perspective, and it’s a widely shared approach in our market. I can’t speak for how other countries handle it, but in Scandinavia, we’re driven by ambitious sustainability goals. The mentality here is to fully commit to this project, which puts our culture a step ahead in these developments and also serves as an attractive positioning abroad. For example, around 50% of our employees come from countries like France, Germany, Sweden, and the UK. It’s incredibly appealing to be part of this journey as both a community and society.

FNW: What does it mean for the brand to have its roots in Copenhagen and be part of the local scene?

P.S: It defines our DNA—our entire brand culture. The way we approach design and sustainability is deeply connected to this city. The company’s values stem from the spirit of Denmark. Ultimately, what we offer our customers are our own brand values.

FNW: Why have you opted for a presentation format instead of a traditional runway show?

P.S: We’ve held runway shows in the past, but we’ve decided to take a different direction—one that aligns more with sustainability and who we are as a brand. An event like this allows us to socialise, connect, and communicate in a different way. We prefer offering a unique experience that goes beyond the typical fashion show.

Runway shows also create a high-pressure environment within the company. Before and during such events, the design and marketing teams are under enormous pressure. I don’t think anyone wants to be in that situation or feels particularly proud of it. The teams give everything for a few minutes of a show that has to make an impact—it’s perhaps asking too much. Of course, fashion shows are extremely important for the industry, but I think we need to rethink things and stay true to who we are. I wouldn’t rule out returning to that format in the future, but right now, our strategy is taking a different path, exploring other ways to grow that align with our values.

FNW: What is the current economic situation for the company?

P.S: We’re certainly not in a tailwind. The pressure is being felt across all sectors, from luxury to accessible fashion. However, I believe we’re managing quite well. In a time like this, we haven’t laid off any employees, and we believe in keeping the teams we have. We might have reduced our orders by 5% or 10%, as stores now prefer to place smaller orders than in the past, but we’re making up for it with our recycling programs. So, our economic balance has remained stable because growth in some areas compensates for certain losses. We used to be more focused on Northern Europe, but now we’re becoming more international.

FNW: What are your growth prospects?

P.S: There’s still plenty of room for growth in our key markets. Our main countries right now are Denmark, Norway, Sweden, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Germany. Additionally, we’re seeing interesting growth in France, thanks to partnerships with stores like Galeries Lafayette and La Samaritaine.

FNW: And what about the product offering?

P.S: We see significant growth potential in both our men’s and women’s fashion lines. In fact, at present, it’s our menswear that’s experiencing the most rapid growth. Womenswear tends to adapt more quickly in new markets, whereas menswear tends to build stronger customer loyalty, as men tend to stick with brands for a longer period once they find one they like. However, it’s more challenging to convince men to try a new brand. Historically, women have been more open to exploring and purchasing new brands, which allows for faster growth potential in womenswear.

FNW: Do you have any plans for diversification?

P.S: We’re considering developing our own line of handbags. We believe there’s a space where we could position ourselves. The price point for handbags in luxury brands has become too high, and many people can’t afford it. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth spending such an exorbitant amount on a handbag. We think we can offer a quality product with good design, a compelling brand story, respectful production practices, and a fair price. It’s the most honest approach for our customers. Right now, we only offer five handbags for women, and they’re selling very well, so we’re considering expanding into a full range. Additionally, I think we can strengthen our presence in categories like outerwear and denim.

FNW: How important is the online channel for the brand?

P.S: If we include our online partners and our own e-commerce platform, online sales account for about 26% of our total revenue. I think it’s a healthy balance.

In September, we launched our e-commerce platform in 11 markets, including the U.S., Poland, Switzerland, and Spain. We have high expectations for this initiative. In fact, in many of our physical stores across Europe, we’ve noticed numerous transactions made with U.S. credit cards, which indicates strong growth potential in that market. We already have around 100 clients in the U.S. and our own showroom. It’s a different and challenging market, but incredibly exciting post-pandemic. We’re also eyeing Australia and New Zealand. While they’re not our primary focus, we certainly want to establish a strong presence there.

FNW: What role does the physical retail channel play for you?

P.S: We have a significant number of physical stores, and we’ve always believed in this channel. The main challenges come down to negotiating with landlords. There will always be physical stores, but rent prices are a crucial factor in determining their existence and development. Humans are social beings; we want to go out and engage with others, not do everything from home. In our case, we aim to continue expanding our physical presence in key cities like Paris, London, and eventually New York. That’s our plan for the next three years.

FNW: Looking ahead, how will you appeal to new generations?

P.S: I don’t see engaging new generations as a major challenge. After all, despite the differences we try to address, they are still consumers with their own habits. In our case, we attract many young customers, especially through our menswear offerings, thanks to the values our brand embodies. We’re well aligned with what new generations expect because we share the same values. That means we’re not one of those brands that changes just to cater to Gen Z; instead, we evolve alongside them. This already happened when younger generations pushed for change regarding sustainability, and I believe they will continue to lead the way, encouraging other generations to adapt. But it has to be an organic and meaningful transformation. If we ever fail to align ourselves genuinely, I trust that my two young children will be the first to tell me!

FNW: How has the company integrated the use of artificial intelligence?

P.S: We don’t use AI for artificial design, but rather to collect and process data to better understand our customers and how our stores, online sales, and partner channels are performing. I think AI has been used for some time, but now it offers more complex functionalities. I see it more as a tool to support and enhance the company by providing useful insights.