“I love Meryl Streep,” said designer Elie Saab backstage before his spring 2025 show, echoing the popular sentiment of the actress.
The love fest is mutual. Streep famously wore Saab to the Oscars ceremony in 2017 and expressed her deep admiration and respect for his work at the time. The designer said a rewatch of one of his favorite Streep films, 1985’s best picture “Out of Africa,” served as the foundation for this season.
Cue safari jackets and an overall sportier collection from the Lebanese designer. “These colors, for me, are really freeing for myself,” he said.
Thus he decided to forgo basic black, using a dark khaki green as his base neutral, with pops of deep brick and dusty rose. A micro leopard print was demure enough not to overpower.
He experimented with new textures and materials including raffia on dresses, skirts and tops, also interpreted in softer waffle weave knit on slim columns with floral appliqués, shorts, bikini tops and cardigans.
Saab played with the palm frond shape in embroidery and sequins. And if that wasn’t enough, he surrounded the runway with palms and vines to create a botanical counteraction to the Palais de Tokyo’s stark modernity.
Soft, S-curve shaped dresses appeared in lighter, flowing fabrics — another nod to Streep’s style in the film — though overall he maintained a modern silhouette for dresses and jumpsuits cinched at the waist. Daywear was a major focus, with bandeaus, crops or corsets topping trousers or full skirt looks.
Raffia played on totes and beach-ready bucket hats. Saab once again upended his monogram, working it into a metal collar that anchored a gown, while elsewhere he used big, bold brass cuffs and other chunky accessories to offset the delicacy of many of his sheer textiles.
Saab’s freedom with this collection showed in his lighter touch. The designer is in full creative mode as he preps for his major fashion show and entertainment extravaganza planned for Riyadh Season on Nov. 13.
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