Manolo Blahnik opens in Bon Marché; sees future growth in DTC

The house of Manolo Blahnik feted its latest boutique opening in Paris, a shop-shop inside Bon Marché, with a dinner Monday evening in the famed department store. We spoke to CEO Kristina Blahnik about future strategy.

 
The Bon Marché space marks significant step for a creator who has always been linked with the City of Light. His space lis ocated right next to top-shelf brands like Chloé, Celine, Dior and Chanel. While the dinner of sea bream carpaccio and risotto with white truffles washed down by Barolo was catered by Bon Marché’s Primo Piano restaurant, which like Manolo’s shoes comes from Italy.
 
Blahnik already had a charming store inside Palais Royal since 2019, located on the west side of the famed colonnaded square that also houses, France’s Ministry of Culture and the country’s most famous theatre – La Comédie Française.

Of Czech and Spanish origin, Manolo studied law in Geneva, before coming to Paris in 1975 to enroll in the Ecole des Beaux Arts. He then moved to London and opened his first boutique in 1971, gaining attention by designing shoes for top UK designers, including Ossie Clark, Jean Muir and Zandra Rhodes. Though his most famous fashion connection was to John Galliano, who anchored dozens of his catwalk shows in Blahnik’s creations.
 
Manolo, as everyone knows him, has gradually expanded his international network to include stores in Geneva, New York, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Taipei.
 
Still controlled by the founding family, the house has ridden out the current luxury downturn with grace. In August, it unveiled “robust operating profit” and its “second-best year to date.” Turnover in the 12 months to the end of December did drop to €106.5 million from €118.2 million. And pre-tax profit was down 30% at €15.4 million, in line with group expectations. But operating profit stayed strong at 15% of total revenues.
 
Manolo’s footwear has always been noted for its sense of fantasy, incorporating antique lace, brocade and delicate buckle – making him an iconic shoemaker and artist. Over the years, Blahnik’s achievements have been recognized with multiple international accolades, including the Luxury Legend Award attributed by British luxury body Walpole, and the Couture Council of the Museum at FIT’s Award for Artistry. In 2007, Queen Elizabeth II presented the designer with an Honorary Commander of the British Empire (CBE).
 
So, we took time with the house’s CEO, and Manolo’s niece, Kristina Blahnik to gauge the temperature at a marque that continues to cut a unique swathe through luxury and fashion.
 
Fashion Network : Why was it important to open in Paris?
Kristina Blahnik: It’s a very special store for us. Paris is very essential to Manolo. It’s the first city he moved to after studying in Geneva, and lived for many years, before finally making London his home. So, Paris is always his second home. Even if he is most at home in a factory making shoes! Our mission is to open in all the key cities that mean everything to him.
 
FN: Where do you plan to open next?
KB: We have done a joint venture with Bluebell in Asia, and we are about to open our second and third stores with them in Hong Kong. And in Shanghai on the fourth of November. Our very first time in China, where we have focused a lot in the last 18 months.  We are also opening in Miami in the beginning of this coming year. In the Design District, inside a beautiful building in the Palm Court, right in front of Buckminster Fuller’s famous geodesic dome.
 
FN: Where do you see growth in the future?
KB: We have focused very much on direct to consumer. That is the model we are adding more into. To find the perfect balance, and we are almost there between business to business, direct to consumer, and our own stores.  I’d say DTC could grow to become half of our sales.
 
FN: How do you deal with sizing, which makes DTC trickier for consumers?
KB: Well, we know our territories very well and have a very good intrinsic understanding of the size bridges. So, yes there are many more sizes in shoes than fashion, but we are very careful how we build our size bridges.
 
FN: Given current market conditions, why have you fared better than many other luxury brands?
KB: Well, we are very happy with our 2023 results. 2024 will be slightly different, because we have a very active role in DTC. So, we have done some consolidation in our commercial partnerships in B-to-B. So, 2024 will be a more challenging year than the last two have been, but we are cautiously optimistic that 2025 will be better than 2024.
 
FN: Define the DNA of Manolo Blahnik?
KB: Independent, creative, colorful, comfortable and modern.
 
FN: Will you be creating shows for any designer shows again?
KB: Well, we don’t create shoes especially for shows, but we work with many young designers keen to dress their casts in Manolo Blahnik. Like Standing Ground (winner of the €200,000 LVMH Savoir Faire award) last season in London, which was wonderful.