Regenerated Iceberg fêtes 50th anniversary at Milan Fashion Week

Regeneration and rebirth were two key words defining the looks presented at Iceberg’s Milan Fashion Week show. The luxury sportswear label owned by Italian fashion group Gilmar has celebrated its 50th anniversary by making snakeskin prints the signature element of its new Spring/Summer 2024 collection. A snake’s skin is a symbol of constantly evolving life: it embodies the notion of metamorphosis, and is proof of the vitality Creative Director James Long has injected in the label.

Black played a starring role in the men’s and women’s looks showcased on the Pelota venue’s runway. Long has streamlined the silhouette, creating “items designed to be worn to have fun and dance till dawn, and more!” The British designer, after focusing on Iceberg’s menswear for several seasons, has now created a womenswear collection too. Long is committed to staying true to the label’s DNA, but the womenswear looks presented in Milan were a clear example of the label’s profound transformation.

“Snakeskin-print trench coats are among my favourite items, but I truly love cotton too, and how we’ve managed to make it easy to wear and cool at the same time,” a decidedly satisfied and relaxed Long told FashionNetwork.com backstage after the show.

All the outfits – from gilets to tops, skirts and jerseys – were enhanced with metallic details and zips. Biker jackets in printed faux leather were worn with miniskirts and swimsuits. The collection oozed an energetic, vibrant functional mood, evident in the longline three-pocket cargo skirts, monochrome utility vests, safari-style jackets, and jumpsuits with zips on the shoulders and legs. Boots too featured python-skin prints and zips, while the tailored jackets surprised with their laser cuts. Snakeskin was a feature of the collection’s trench coats, emphasising, alongside the metallic details, Iceberg’s spirited rebirth.

Speaking to FashionNetwork.com after the show, Corrado Masini, Gilmar’s global brands director, said that Iceberg has celebrated its 50th anniversary by also dropping a fresh version of an envelope bag from its archives, and a new fragrance. “James’s all-encompassing vision is an integral part of the concept of our new women’s perfume, Be Wonderfully You, produced and distributed by Beauty & Luxury. It has a truly fascinating multi-faceted bottle, and its launch will be supported by a stunning advertising campaign,” said Masini.

Iceberg entered the Chinese market only three seasons ago, but it continues to grow in the country by consolidating its wholesale presence, backed by a local distribution partner, a key element to make headway in Asian markets. “Iceberg’s top three markets are Russia, the USA and Benelux,” Masini told FashionNetwork.com. “Currently, we generate 75% of our revenue outside Italy. For fiscal 2023, we confirm our optimistic but well-grounded forecasts,” he added. Masini was instead a tad sceptical about opening monobrand stores in future. “These are times when predicting the future is difficult. Choices are often dictated by exceptional circumstances, and opening stores on leading commercial high streets, in Milan for example, is very expensive. We’d rather take one step at a time, continuing to invest in advertising to strengthen Iceberg’s contemporary image,” he said.

“In 2022, [Iceberg’s revenue] grew by 11%, and we’re very happy about the way 2023 began. We’re aiming to expand into Eastern Europe and the Middle East. And in 2024, we’re dreaming of re-opening in Milan,” concluded Masini.