Success for Miu Miu and Margiela as latest Lyst Index is released

Q3’s Lyst index was released on Wednesday and it showed just how powerful Miu Miu’s bounce-back has become — it was the hottest brand in the world from July to September.

See catwalk

Searches for the Prada-owned label rose 16% during the quarter (and in its 30th anniversary year) as it “surpassed ‘big sister’ Prada’s brand heat, thanks to global demand for hero products including ballet flats and the Arcadie bag,” plus its cashmere cardigan. 

Miu Miu has enjoyed a succession of must-have items in recent seasons and its winning formula doesn’t appear to be anywhere near running out of steam.

Meanwhile, the latest ranking also saw some other key labels moving upwards in the top 10 with Bottega Veneta rising one spot, fellow Kering-owned label Saint Laurent and Moncler also up one, Jacquemus up an astonishing six spots and Burberry rising a pleasing four places to number 10 as Daniel Lee’s first collection hits the store shelves.

That Jacquemus jump put it at number nine, its highest ranking since The Lyst Index began. “Through its unique brand storytelling and viral VR marketing campaigns, Jacquemus is tapping into the power of social media to drive engagement and demand for its products,” Lyst said, adding that searches rose 17% in Q3.

The full top 10 in descending order is Miu Miu, Loewe, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Saint Laurent, Moncler, Valentino, Jacquemus, and Burberry.

And the top 20 includes Diesel at number 11 ahead of Gucci, Dior, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Skims, Fendi, JW Anderson and Ferragamo. In fact, Ferragamo in the Top 20 for the first time ever.

Meanwhile, a trio of ‘Breakout Brands’ were rising fast. They include Tory Burch, with searches up 15% on the back of buzz created by it being seen on Bella Hadid, Suki Waterhouse and Emily Ratajkowski.

Helmut Lang was also in the breakout pack as Peter Do unveiled his first collection and searches for the brand increased 19%. Its trending product was the Stencil hoodie. 

The third of the trio was Poster Girl with searches up 10% and the brand’s trending product being the feathered Tulia trousers.

Slow burn for Margiela

And talking of in-demand products, it’s been a slow burn, but Maison Margiela’s Tabi Mary Jane was the world’s hottest item this quarter. It’s been a Margiela staple for some time but saw a 342% jump in September following the TikTok sensation ‘The Tabi Swiper’. 

It’s no surprise that Miu Miu’s logo cashmere cardigan was the quarter’s second hottest product. The item was a must-have and it also benefited from the overall cardie revival with searches up 44% for the category. 

Cos’s quilted bag wasn’t only in third place but was the second bag from a high street brand to make it into The Lyst Index this year. It follows the success of Uniqlo’s round mini shoulder bag in Q1.

The FW23 Martine Rose x Nike collab for the women’s World Cup, continued Rose’s partnership with Nike and the Lionesses and a 70% spike in searches for the new versions of the popular Shox MR4 Mule shoe made the hybrid sneaker-mule the fourth hottest product this quarter. There was a “significant rise” in searches for cleats over the quarter too. 

Meanwhile Birkenstock was fifth and was another more affordable item near the top of the list. This was its eighth appearance in the hottest product category and the third time the Arizona sandal has featured, largely down to renewed hype from the Barbie movie. Searches increased 110% in the 48 hours following the movie’s release. 

The rest of the top 10 comprised Tory Burch pierced mules; Loewe Puzzle Tote; New balance 550 sneakers; Prada 3D flower heels; and Acne sunglasses.

Lyst highlighted how the New Balance 550 in eighth position, “prove that the Taylor Swift effect is real. On top of driving Travis Kelce’s jersey sales by nearly 400%, the singer’s appearance at a Kansas City Chiefs football game sent searches for the sneakers — which she wore as part of her red and white outfit — soaring 44%. In the days following the game, the sneakers sold out online and have since appeared on resale sites for up to three times their original $110 price”.