Alexandre Mattiussi’s star keeps rising

Alexandre Mattiussi keeps on growing as a designer, as his latest collection, a contemporary take on French chic, confirmed in a Thursday night show.

Mattiussi won himself a two-minute ovation as he followed the last models around a series of grand bureaus in a Haussmann-era building in the midst of reconstruction. The location was telling, at the beginning of Boulevard St Germain and right across the street from France’s parliament, the Assembly, for Mattiussi is very much at the center of today’s French fashion excellence.
 
His great skill is understanding what people really want to wear while injecting in enough of his own polished DNA. Balancing commercial with the right dose of cool.

Mattiussi’s clothes can seem deceptively simple. In a co-ed show, the opening duo girl and guy wore simple crepe shirt and gilet; ankle-length skirt and billowing pants. But the proportions and mood were perfect. 
 
For men and women, the casual wing collar tuxedo shirts, putty hued fresh wool jackets, windowpane check blazers and big collar denim shirts all had great aplomb. Often using the same fabrics for men and women.

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And, just when it felt a tiny bit formulaic, he sent out a couple of beautiful cape tops, and a taupe silk sheath that made the model look rather magical, especially seen before the white stucco background.
 
No wonder Mattiussi received such warm applause when he followed out Italian super model Vittoria Ceretti, dressed in a sinful red jumpsuit. An eclectic guest list included Emma Roberts, Issa Rae, Joe Locke, House Ambassador Choi Woo Shik, K-pop star Jihyo, Selma Blair, Simone Baldasseroni. Along with local fans Lou Doillon, Catherine Deneuve, Juliette Binoche and Leila Bekhti.
 
Accessorized with chunky metal bracelets and necklaces, and backed up with a charming soundtrack, led by Eartha Kitt singing “C’est Magnifique” this all felt like the coolest of fashion expressions.