The Mexican painter and poet Carmen Mondragón, who was also known as Nahui Olin and was renowned for questioning social norms and fighting against the oppressive conditions imposed on women in the early 20th century, was the main inspiration for Alfredo Martínez’s spring 2025 collection.
The Guadalajara-born designer, who has earned a place in Mexico’s fashion scene by designing garments that make women look powerful, hoped to evoke “the courage women have, and the audacity to face challenges unique to each era,” he explained after the show. “Carmen Mondragón did many things at that time that were not well regarded for a woman to be doing.”
In Martínez’s universe, the terms “powerful” and “brave” are closely intertwined. The models, all in black pixie cut wigs, walked swiftly, and the presence of trench coats, hats, and sunglasses suggested that these were women on a mission—with places to go, goals to achieve, and paradigms to break. The clothes were luxurious, imposing, structured, and yet extremely feminine; with pronounced shoulders, sharply defined waists, and pencil skirts for daytime, and flowing dresses in bright colors with suggestive cutouts for the evening. It was, in essence, an essay on how to look like a million dollars while breaking the rules.
Two aspects stood out: The first was the inclusion of new materials, such heavy twills and cotton. Martínez sought to offer more commercial and practical garments without sacrificing the glamour that has made him a favorite among local and international celebrities seeking red carpet options. Menswear was another fresh addition, though it was not his first time. “Six years ago, I did something very small,” said Martínez. But this time, the men’s pieces were on par with the women’s. “I feel that in Carmen Mondragón’s photographs, there was always a man, as if lost,” he continued. “So, I thought it would be a good time to introduce menswear and give myself the opportunity to creatively explore this area.”
The accessories did not go unnoticed. Bucket hats ranging from standard to extra-large sizes, as well as voluminous earrings, necklaces, and bracelets framed necks, ears, and wrists were a nod to the villainous figures Martínez admires. “That prominence, like a villainous woman, drives me crazy,” he said. “And villains have big earrings.” If you ask us, brave women do too.