Joseph Altuzarra described spring 2025 as an evolution of his 15th anniversary fall collection, in which he recalibrated how he thinks about clothes. Less thematic, more of “what the, quote unquote, wardrobe is,” he said. Spring was designed in the same vein to emulate the idea of walking into someone’s closet filled with a mix of specialty styles and garments passed down, or from another time, next to everyday and core fashions.
The approach was evident with look one — a short leather trench with detachable capelet, worn with eyelet cuffs and collar and jogger pants — which served as a nod to fall’s opening caped barn jacket look. The idea also came through new takes on recognizable classics, like fair isle ski sweaters turned into a pouffed short-sleeve jumper and paper yarn gown, or eyelet embroideries exaggerated on dramatic, layered tops paired with sheer chiffon skirts.
Scalloped edge silhouettes were partially inspired by paper dolls, channeling his love of physical books.
The idea of the leafy page also came through in new Origami bags crafted out of single, rectangular piece of leather that can pack flat; knife pleated bottoms; silk frocks with crisp folds reminiscent of bookbinding; double-layered sheer knits (“like vellum paper over opaque paper,” Altuzarra noted), to name a few. Even his prints tied back to paper processes — a marbled floral; Surrealist-meets-mythical landscapes inspired by poetry, and anatomical body drawings — rendered on simple yet impactful pieces.
“I did want this collection to have this dichotomy between things that are quite constructed, and then things that feel really soft and easy,” Altuzarra said of spring, which offered a strong mix of both, as seen through soft pannier crinoline dresses and skirts, or strong tailoring and outerwear, like a sleek black tailored blazer, nipped in at the waist and softly rounded at the hip, paired with a red knife pleated skirt.