Coming off an over-the-top 35th anniversary show held at New York’s famed Delmonico’s steakhouse last spring, Mark Badgley and James Mischka pared things way back for pre-fall.
The focus was on sinuous draping and neat structures over print and embellishment. “It’s not a moment of ostentation,” explained Badgley during a preview at the partners’ TriBeCa showroom. He was alluding to the state of the U.S. economy and to conflicts overseas, leading Mischka to point out this collection’s delivery in the run-up to the 2024 presidential election.
For clients on the campaign circuit who’d prefer not to walk into staid political functions “looking like a Christmas tree,” the designers offered tasteful knee-length sheaths in lace and jewel-toned crepe. One in sapphire stood out for its modern sack shape hinging on an inverted cowl neck.
The timeless style of interior design maven and close friend Mica Ertegun was a major influence, and though she died this week, the designers were proud to honor her through a series of Hellenic-style evening dresses, which she favored.
Had she lived, one could imagine Ertegun adding a knockout caftan hybrid in draped amethyst satin to her collection of togas by Madame Grés — “It’s a lotta look for $550,” Badgley joked. Or maybe she’d take one of the breezier georgette maxis with knife-pleating and crystals dotting the neck.
Ertegun once professed to WWD she was “not the ruffle type,” but a few were cleverly added here and there to differentiate the silhouettes. They were most impactful sprouting from the shoulders of a two-tone mermaid gown with vermicelli sequin skirt. While it was certainly the least conservative look in the lineup, it showed Badgley and Mischka still know how to bring the party during tough times.