Seeking to constantly evolve Brioni’s sartorial codes is a mission for Norbert Stumpfl, who outdid himself with the spring collection for the brand, an ode to its Italian tailors in Penne.
The serene garden nestled behind the façade of the stately 18th century Palazzo Borromeo D’Adda was the ideal setting for the presentation — the soft light of a cloudy Milanese day emphasized the new watercolor palette of a cashmere, silk and linen suit. Stumpfl said proudly that four of his team of eight are dedicated just to fabric research and development and that 70 percent of the cloths employed by Brioni are exclusive, coming from Italian, English and Japanese mills.
To be sure, the fabrics are always distinctive, and the extra-fine wool of the new double-breasted suit Stumpfl himself was wearing was almost weightless. A double splittable silk shantung suit in azure was worn over a beige knitted evening shirt and looked remarkable. A seersucker suit with a herringbone texture and mother-of-pearl buttons was also a standout.
This season, pants were more high-waisted, for a longer silhouette, and larger lapels added more volume to the breezy looks. An elasticized waist on pants under shirts in the same material as the suit conveyed an easy look that telegraphed comfort. A windbreaker in technical silk with leather details and a crocodile jacket were all about luxury.
The skill of Brioni’s tailors also stood out in the eveningwear segment, as 10,000 hand-embroidered knots made with glass beads and threads of yarns embellished a shantung jacket.
Brioni next year will mark its 80th anniversary and part of the installation paid tribute to the brand’s first menswear fashion show at the Sala Bianca in Florence. A number of male and female mannequins wearing white suits — bianca means white in Italian — lounged on the grass, reading or appearing to chat amicably — the ultimate luxury as green stains were simply not a concern.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.