Carlota Barrera’s spring collection, named Traces, arose from a desire to return to the tactile sense of couture. “I needed to reconnect closely with the materiality of garments, fabrics, and the body,” the designer said; but the collection also functioned as a testament to the imprints of time, to what was worn, touched, or altered. “Through every fold, crinkle, and dart, the clothes capture the essence of remnants: moments, gestures, and experiences that continue to resonate.” These marks, whether intentional or not, validate our existence and the impact we have on the lives of those around us.
A subtle, almost philosophical touch materialized in a collection of fluid patterns, deconstructed without fuss, playing with textures and tactile details. “Stitches that are normally functional now become decorative,” Barrera shared. The palette, in the different shades of a summer day, was also used to evoke the passage of time. “A burnt orange ignites the horizon at sunrise, while earthy tones like beige and olive green capture the grounded, natural feel of the day. Hand-dyed garments in deep blue and black feel like they’ve absorbed the remnants of a rain-soaked path, as if someone stepped into a puddle and carried its stain with them,” the designer explained.
Shirts, vests, and suits sat halfway between masculine and feminine. “For centuries, menswear has adhered to very rigid codes, often designed to enforce ideas of power, restraint, and uniformity. I explore the intersection of masculinity and femininity, and how those expressions can coexist in harmony rather than opposition,” she reflected. The clothes featured details that may seem accidental but weren’t: wrinkles, pinched darts, and asymmetrically dropped hem cuffs. The designer’s signature slits were now closed with delicate handmade cross-stitching, and her usual clean lines were embellished with small trinkets intended to hold and evoke great sentimental value.