Almost every piece Cult Gaia makes has a key distinguishing detail that makes it just that much different. The knee-high snakeskin boots have a heel that sits at a 45 degree angle, the blue sequin gown is injected with feathers, the bikini is made with raffia. With plenty of bags and shoes that look almost like art projects, designer Jasmin Larian Hekmat has to find a way to make the collection functional and solidly-constructed as well. “I went really hard on craftsmanship, almost obsessively so,” she said of spring 2024. “I feel like I was super conceptual for a while, but now I’m like ‘we can do it, and we can make it super wearable.’” She emphasized the textures—silk, raffia, plissé—and the elements done by hand, such as patchwork and fraying hems.
Not to worry, though: the result was still pretty abstract, as seen in the geometric, blocky heels as well as the pleated architectural dresses in emerald green that Hekmat referred to as couture. Spring 2024 felt spiritually similar to resort 2024, which also offered a range of funky beachwear. In fact, some silhouettes continued into spring, such as the silky matching set with a bandeau resembling long feathers or leaves, and the dresses made of raffia disks. Cult Gaia is a summery brand after all—evident in the sandals, the partywear, and, of course, the cut-outs.