“I feel good about it all,” remarked David Koma at a preview. Over the past couple of seasons, the designer’s demeanor before his shows has noticeably relaxed, a testament to his confidence in his own work—a growth that’s fantastic to witness.
Consistent with his dedication to honoring accomplished women in creative realms, Koma found inspiration for his fall collection in seismic figures in dance, including the late German neo-Expressionist pioneer Pina Bausch and contemporary Spanish choreographer Candela Capitán. He aimed to juxtapose these influences with the impactful kinetic sculptures of artist Rebecca Horn, but it was his visit to the “Thin Air” exhibition at London’s Royal Docks that ignited this collection’s concept. Reflecting on the experience, he shared that “the space, light, and sound were comforting yet felt aligned with my taste. It was then that I began to explore dance and movement as central themes.”
Bausch’s fusion of everyday attire with dancewear manifested in sleek black and white ensembles centered on formfitting leggings and justacorps-inspired tops, along with elegant evening gowns complete with ballet bustiers. Tutus were reimagined with an assortment of fabrics and hues, from feathered hems on leotards to chiffon shrugs across minidresses. Tailoring appeared more structured, crafted from neoprene, and came in the form of blazers, coats, and plume-adorned pants.
From intricately hand-spun creations emerged vibrant graphic designs, decorating floor-length macramé silhouettes accentuated by chunky knitted stoles resembling frayed tweed. Shearling burst forth from miniskirts and leather biker-jacket linings. And of course, no David Koma show would be complete without some razzle-dazzle—garments sparkled with rock-size crystals nestled in raw metal rings. Continuing the dance-inspired theme, satin slingbacks and boots were embellished with plumes that added a playful party-girl flair. By the end of the show, Koma had us all tapping our toes.