On Saturday in Milan, it was Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana back doing what they do best, a very definite Dolce & Gabbana DNA collection, whose connecting thread was femme fatale & roll.
No designers anywhere can create so much sizzle as Domenico and Stefano, even as they create a collection that was 90% in black. Gamine gals in scores of lingerie looks, topped by berets and fascinators, their hair pulled back in chignons. All rather French-café society. Pretty well everything in black.
A show where the heart of the matter, despite all the lingerie, was the superlative tailoring. Brilliant new fluid tuxedo-meets-mess jackets; micro dinner jackets with extended sleeves; dramatic undertakers coats; noble lady town-coats. All the way to a fabulous cavalry officer’s hussar jacket, worn with black silk knickers, cummerbund and never-ending legs.
Never in the history of a major league fashion house have so many pairs of tights and bras been displayed on so many gals. Talk about the burial of quiet luxury.
Everything cut with power shoulders, displaced pockets and bold lapel widths. Not one logo, but every look said very clearly “Dolce & Gabbana”.
Café society cool, a sense of a beautiful, fully in control woman going to meet their lover. Starring a gang of veteran supes like Amber Valletta in a stunning, door opening marabout feather and grosgrain ribbon coat, a bird of fantasy look. Or Eva Herzigova as a gorgeous gamine.
And there were cheers and applause and stamping feet at the finale, when Naomi Campbell made the ultimate passage, shoulders rolling tempestively, and attired in lace bra, tights, a sheer slip and dominatrix gloves.
Before the design duo took their bow to deafening applause – in the best example in some time of designers being very true to themselves.
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