Perceptions can shift with context and distance: ask Ilenia Durazzi and she will prove it with her brand.
On a growth trajectory — gaining traction both in the domestic market and South Korea — the Italian label has found a new home in Milan. It relocated from a small apartment in an historic building to a space filled with natural lighting that Durazzi completely revamped to house the brand’s headquarters but also to become a gathering point for the city’s cultural community.
The minimal interior, which mixes nature and concrete and served as venue for her spring 2025 presentation, shed a new light on her fashion, revealing its more experimental side.
“I’ve always considered this as a futurist brand, but maybe the work on materials and the experimentation intrinsic in its DNA weren’t as clear in the other space,” said the soft-spoken designer.
The change of scenery went hand-in-hand with the evolution of Durazzi’s codes as her latest collection veered from an equestrian narrative and to show a looser approach to tailoring compared to the sharp lines of previous efforts.
Influenced by the Arte Povera art movement and DIY culture, Durazzi displayed charming, everyday pieces that looked simple and rustic from afar but revealed their craftsmanship up close. A camel-hued blazer jacket with curled sleeves held by leather cuffs was crafted from raffia and came with a matching skirt; a suede-looking papery trenchcoat was cut from high-performance nylon, while a simple tank top was elevated with a beautiful distressed technique that lent the design an impalpable texture.
Further building on the imperfect and crafty vibe, Durazzi covered a silk blouse and casual zippered jacket in grosgrain fringes embroidered with metallic medals; had naïf motifs hand-painted on an uncomplicated shirt dress and A-line frock, and introduced macramé separates as a counterpoint to thicker textures and the sculptural volumes of skirts and capes.
She also widened her accessories lineup, as many of the existing bags and boots became part of what the designer titled “Permanent Collection,” a line of carryover styles that include the brand’s signature gray tailoring and the must-have five-pocket leather pants.