Ah, the archives! For any designer appointed at a brand with a past and cachet, they’re places of wonder to mine. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis’s access to the label’s trove of past collections has helped him establish a minimalistic aesthetic, underpinned by classicism and infused with a certain sensuality that “feels very Italian,” he said at a showroom visit. He doesn’t seem intimidated by the house’s heritage; rather, he’s approaching it with cautious confidence. For resort, he found still-life images from advertising campaigns in the 1970s “conveying a sense of reality as well as ease and glamour.” The ’70s were two-sided, louche and sexy as well as more effortless and elegant. He tried to blend the dichotomy into a cohesive coed offer, softening the military accents of the fall collection. “We wanted to continue the same spirit but in a more lightweight and easy-to-wear way,” he explained.
The silhouette for both genders was slightly more laid-back and relaxed, while keeping with Davis’s restrained approach. More fluidity was apparent in the languid scarf dressing he’s establishing as one of Ferragamo’s strong points. Archival floral motifs that blurred into abstract distortions were printed on a loose shirt with a matching asymmetrical skirt; an elaborately draped wrap dress in olive silk jacquard with loose-scarf details stood in contrast to slimmer tailored silhouettes with strong shoulders and narrow waists. Luxurious outerwear balanced angularity and softness.
Davis has a rather clear idea about consumers’ preferences; he’s a keen observer of where the market is going under the present circumstances. He believes that “people buying into luxury today are looking for a sense of comfort and timelessness, for quality pieces that are distinctive in details and fabrications,” he said. “They also look carefully at branding, they want recognizable items. What’s happening in the world makes customers very cautious when shopping. They want excitement but also pieces that last, that can be passed down as heirlooms, as it has been done in my family. It’s a beautiful thing, sentimental and valuable.”