Since his arrival at Ferrari at the end of 2019, Rocco Iannone has set the foundations of the iconic car brand’s fashion lexicon, from the bomber jacket to the pencil skirt, and his spring collection reflected his confidence in further evolving its wardrobe of staples.
The workwear, racing overall was still there, but in a blotted, ‘70s-inspired leather with an effect similar to the briarwood that might be used on a Ferrari dashboard, or in a new denim treatment, it was less literal and had a new edge.
The new brushed denim with marbled effects, used also in cool miniskirts, jackets and totes, reflected Iannone’s expertise with fabric research. To wit, Ferrari’s Q-Cycle satin certified material derived from the processing of waste tires, expanded further into knitwear and technical treatments of twill, extending to finishes of crinkled organza.
The show opened with sleek tailored looks, a long, light spring coat for her and a pantsuit for him, in a fetching ocher shade lined in red. The lineup evolved in a segment of beautiful skirts and jackets showing an intricate 3D composition of graphic ribbons reproducing Ferrari’s Prancing Horse symbol.
Other novelties included Bermuda shorts and flowing blouses made with silk carré scarves, with hand painted brush strokes evoking ’70s steering wheels and the sparkling cocktail looks that closed the show. These had a couture-like detailing and craftsmanship but also had a relaxed attitude, as seen in the skirt worn with a short, navel-baring silk blouse.
Iannone succeeded in working with different shades of red – another symbol of the house – in new variations, from tobacco to terracotta, and again less literal.
Accessories were not an afterthought, as the designer evolved the driving ballerina in crinkled leather into sandals, pumps, and a boot, and offered the Maranello clutch in radica leather.
The toolbox of factory workers inspired the shape of a new leather handbag punctuated by metal studs, and bordered with fringe made from repurposed leather offcuts. The fringe – a reference to the mane of the Prancing Horse, were also details on the heels of the stiletto sandals. The eyewear was -ahem – eye-catching with a masked, futuristic shape.
Iannone is prancing ahead with a precise vision that gels with Ferrari’s.