French lingerie brands heat up intimate apparel market with a sultry runway show

While all eyes may be on Paris for the Olympics, another group of its countrymen brought another famous savoir-faire, intimate apparel to the Big Apple’s attention. During the key lingerie tradeshow, Curve, at the Jacob Javits Center on August 4-6, Lingerie Francaise in partnership with DEFI, the Committee for the Development and Promotion of French Clothing, held its annual showcase highlighting its unique lacy underthings. Hosting their event at the glassed-walled space in Central Park’s Loeb Boathouse, the national trade organization for the promotion of the Corsetry Industry highlighted brands Aubade, Simon Pérèle, Chantelle and Chantelle X, Lise Charmel, and sister brands Antigel, Empreinte and Louisa Bracq.

While the affair culminated in the evening with models, classy yet scantily clad, swishing down a runway, the day began with a lingerie talk led by bra educator and fitter influencer Kimmay Caldwell @HurrayKimmay around having self-confidence in lingerie attended by other media influencers. “Kimmay spoke to the crowd to consider the importance of the ritual of wearing lingerie. She asked the audience to care about their bras as they are the closest thing to their hearts,” Laura Angelone, Social Media Manager for Lingerie Francaise, said.

Caldwell also stressed how much more the French consider fit, which Angelone feels sets the sector apart from its American counterparts.

“Here they don’t talk about fit; more about being comfortable in your lingerie, which is important, but in France, we promote bra fitting sessions and emphasize the fact that each woman is unique,” she continued, adding, “The most common mistake is that women don’t truly know their bra size and complain about how it feels. Mostly it’s because they aren’t fitted properly. It’s not an exact science; it could vary depending on each bra. Once you learn about your body and body shape, maybe you size up or down.”

Sandra Jones, Lise Charmel, and Antigel’s Director, North America, noted that another distinguishing facet about French lingerie compared to the US is that in the States, lingerie is viewed as more functional, whereas in France, it’s an equal part of the outfit. “The French want more elegance in their intimates. The approach in the States is different; it dictated the market’s nude tones trend,” she said.

It’s also different where women shop for it. “In Europe, like a coffee shop, there is a lingerie shop everywhere. You practically must go to another State to find a different one here. It’s about a 10 to 1 ration,” Jones continued, referring to the multi-brand mom-and-pop lingerie boutiques. Thus, that leaves the US department store, practically an endangered species, as one of the few places to find various brands in one place. Even with vertical brands, the US mainly only had Victoria’s Secret, so European brands Intimissimi and Etam have opened here. Jones said the US constitutes about 12 percent of its global market distribution, which includes 43 countries, and its presence is expanding here.

While nurturing centuries-old craft, Lise Charmel is also innovative. Jones was excited about the introduction of a metallic lamination process in the brand’s “Eclat d’Or” collection for Fall 2024.

“We use a very precise coating on a  savoir-faire embroidery technique, making the lingerie like wearable jewelry,” she noted.

Holding on to craft and innovation is also the raison d’etre at Louisa Bracq. While the namesake brand was founded in 1938 as an embroidery house, in 2007, they launched a lingerie brand now run by third-generation family members. Located in Calais, France’s premier lace town, Louisa Bracq focuses on couture-level embroideries and fabrics and specializes in sizes from A-cup to K-cup.

According to export director Yana Vitukhovskaya, the brand has been active in the US for approximately six years. It has a strong business with West Coast-based specialty retailer Jenette Bras, which specializes in bra sizes for D-K cups.

“An actress founded it, so it has a celebrity, stylist, and personal shopper client base. We need to sell our bras in stores with a good bra fitter since the sizes are so specific,” Vitukhovskaya continued.

Louisa Bracq, marketing manager Ulyana Sukach, pointed out how French lingerie is different but also intends to preserve the artisanal nature of Calais and surrounding villages. 

“This brand passes down the tradition and savoir-faire so that today is a collaboration of generations of know-how and innovation. We use fine European fabrics like silks made in the same factory as Hermes. We can’t use organic cotton as with plus-size; you need more supportive fabrics,” she said, noting that many facets are done in its headquarters in the Cambrai region of France, the historical heartland of French embroidery. And likely where your fancy French brasserie was fashioned.