From abstract impressionism to non-dyed Mongolian cashmere

Eric Bompard’s fresh and novel design renaissance continues this season as the cashmere specialist showed a collection inspired by Joan Mitchell, the American artist that featured in a recent duo exhibition Monet – Mitchell in the Louis Vuitton Foundation.

The result was a series of great scarves, dresses and loose jumpers, based on handprinted sketches echoing the American’s abstract impressionist style, then digitized and printed with skill.

Part of a new Spring/Summer 2023 collection presented Thursday in a Marais studio by Eric Bompard. And, in a notable juxtaposition, another range of superb cable sweaters – made of non-dyed yarn directly from outer Mongolia, where the brand sources its high-end collections.

Composed in off-white, ecru, beige and caramel – the range varied from clever Aran style gilets with matching belts; fisherman knit crew necks and classy cardigans for men – everything finished with leather buttons. Quite why the brand doesn’t highlight this noble sustainable story remains a mystery, for the clothes and concept are both great. Currently, all the brand’s uber navy blue labels just read Eric Bompard Paris.
 
“All our cashmere is from Mongolia, and knitted there, which really reduces the carbon footprint,” notes the brand’s talented creative director Carolyn Randolfi.
 
The collection marked the first since the departure this July of Managing Director Barbara Werschine after three and a half years at the house. The cashmere marque, which is owned by entrepreneur Xavier Marie, investment fund Apax Partners and BPI France, has not indicated who will replace her or when. The house went through rocky waters during covid, but Eric Bompard is still on the move – with a store due to open on rue des Francs Bourgeois, in shopping mecca the Marais, before Christmas.
 
Elsewhere, Randolfi showed knitted lace cocktails worn with flesh-colored slips, and for guys, light yet creamy sweaters with denim patch shoulders.

Though the heart of the matter is the brand’s luxury basics – like a series of T-shirts, striped sweatshirts and tanks – all knitted like sweaters and made in a 85%/15% cotton/cashmere mix that is light and very classy. Even including cool merch rock concert style blend T-shirts that read “Bompard Eté”, or summer, adding a more youthful approach.
 
“We want jerseys that are chic and sharp,” smiles Randolfi, attired in a Aramis violet cashmere v neck.
 
Also impressing were open shouldered knit tops, “our Brigitte Bardot look,” excellent travel track pants and tops with a new embossed B logo; and a series of cashmere and blend swimwear. “That’s what we call our apéro bikini,” smiled Randolfi using the French slang for an aperitif.