Refined, classically inclined, quietly luxurious. Gabriela Hearst’s menswear is many things, but sexy is not necessarily one of them. That changes though with her fall 2024 offering. In the look book, there’s a sliver of midriff between a snug cable knit sweater and the low slung, slightly flared pants paired with it. The hip-huggers are modeled after the ones Hearst makes for Leiva, a Spanish musician and friend.
Hearst is a textile obsessive, and her taste has always been rarified, but her choices this season felt particularly sensuous. The white and red silk velvet she used for button-down shirts (and the waistband of the silk cady trousers they’re worn with) is as hard to source as it is soft on the skin. Most designers are content to use silk velvet with added viscose, which brings down the price. Not this designer. The black leather of a shirt, pants, and car coat combo looks similarly supple. There’s also a bomber jacket in eco cashmere bouclé and a hoodie in a cashmere “fur” with a lusciously deep pile.
Hearst reports an uptick in requests from male celebrities, which goes a way to explaining the lineup’s new vibes. But there’s nothing as conventional here as traditional black tie. No neckties either, even though they were a frequent sight at the men’s shows in Milan and Paris. Sensualist that she is, Hearst suggests wearing a tuxedo with a fine cotton jersey T-shirt and a fringed scarf—double-faced brushed cashmere, of course.