Gabriela Hearst’s resort lookbook was photographed at Avebury Circle, the UK and the world’s largest stone circle and a pilgrimage site dating to 2850-2200 B.C., making it older than Egypt’s pyramids. Hearst is drawn to such places; she’s New York fashion’s most devoted mystic; she talks unabashedly of witches and warlocks, daring you to raise a doubtful or bemused brow.
I happen to love to talk about such things, but even a skeptic can’t deny the serious luxury of her clothes. Hearst is impassioned about materials and insists on the best, prices be damned. The sea island cotton of a full-sleeved white dress, for instance, was grown on Barbados using only rainwater irrigation, making it more expensive than other cottons, while a double-breasted men’s jacket in fine ombré red cashmere is dip-dyed by hand in Uruguay.
Hearst launched her brand nearly 10 years ago and her design codes have been sharpened to a point. Seasonal novelty comes from the evolution of the craft techniques she employs. This season those included a spaghetti loop stitch seen on a strapless dress in earthy spice shades and a cashmere yarn spun with glass beads that she used for a witchy black openwork caftan.
Also new this season was a bolder-than-usual color palette. The pink of a loopy knit and matching shoulder bag and the vivid cerulean blue of a shearling wrap coat both stood out. But the most exciting development has to be the new two-tone cowboy boots. Having grown up on a ranch in Uruguay, Hearst is particular on the subject. “They took a while to develop,” she said. “I don’t like boots that look like toys.” Her power women customers are likely to appreciate that kind of rigor.