For pre-fall 2024, Gabriele Colangelo refreshed his demi-couture approach to fashion, imbuing a sporty feeling into his sophisticated aesthetic, which charms with its balance between precise tailoring and crafty touches.
For one, he added nylon inserts to trenchcoats cinched with his ever-present long leather strips and metal details that subtly punctuate his clean silhouettes; turned bomber jackets into couture-like capes via zippers, and leaned on nylon to up the practicality of outerwear cut in cocooning maxi volumes.
Although all these touches added a new urban attitude to his clothes, eventually his impeccable sartorial proposition got the spotlight once again. Cue an essential white coat with passementerie embellishments and a blazer jacket with crisscross detailing running on the back to perfect the fit on each body shape. Pristine shirts doubling as short dresses and wool caban jackets came with an extra-long panel to throw around the neck for a simple yet elegant styling trick.
Elsewhere, boxy blazer jackets slashed on the back were intended to reveal chunky mélange knits or bare backs underneath, depending on the weather. Breezy and extra-feminine, a see-through top with a floral motif could be worn both with pants or over a slipdress for a more eveningwear solution.
Lastly, an intricate pencil skirt to layer over pants best embodied the signature blend that lies within Colangelo’s work, that sculptural hand and penchant for artisanal elements that confer a luxe feel to his wearable designs. These might fall outside fashion’s hype radar but can find new resonance in times when a more understated approach to luxury is being favored.