If Ganni creative director Ditte Reffstrup set out to cast a spell with her latest collection, called “The Craft,” she bewitched her audience with a more tailored version of her Scandi style.
The brand brought its runway show to Paris for the first time and sought to balance the sartorial approaches of the two cities. The result was a slightly more suited-up Ganni girl, while keeping the brand’s youthful, effervescent roots with color and light.
Reffstrup reformed design staples from past collections into new iterations, such as the ruffled Peter Pan collar that the brand helped make wildly popular a few years back. It returned on a black bomber, and was referenced as a light neckerchief on several looks elevating the foundational Ganni element with a new layer.
The house maintained its favorite codes. There was plenty of the leopard print, this time around presented as a fresh take on the suit in a pencil skirt and punctuated zip-up jacket, and a bubble skirt minidress and matching boots. The buckles and grommets from its ballet flats appeared on double-belted trenchcoats and puff-sleeve dresses.
A smart denim set had a full skirt with New Look proportions, with the jacket subtly dyed to gently mimic corsetry, a theme carried through on accessories including pointy slingbacks and lace-up boots.
Reffstrup set the stage around a central, smoking cauldron. She took inspiration from witchery for the collection, and with the practice’s idea of modern sisterhood and its holistic approach to living with nature. The brand’s own holistic approach to design — materials that don’t meet its strict internal sustainability requirements never cross its threshold — and Reffstrup’s use of innovative materials is part of what makes the collection stand out in sea of offerings each season.
Against the reality that the fashion industry continues to grow, Ganni wants to push the sustainability agenda from the inside.
In this collection Ganni used six materials from the brand’s “Fabrics of the Future” program of innovators, including Celium, a leather alternative made from mango and pineapple fruit waste, in a sky-colored short suit among key looks.
Ganni’s ethos has always been one of collaboration and community-building, evidenced as models walked last looks holding hands two-by-two down the runway. It added to the air of sisterhood.
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