It’s been a banner year for Ganni, which presented its spring 2025 collection in Paris. This wasn’t a simple matter of “hopping the pond;” reaching out to a wider audience led to introspection about what the brand is and what it stands for. Ditte Reffstrup was still mulling those questions over when designing this pre-fall collection in which Ganni-isms are revisited and revised. This season, for example, the label’s popular nipped waist jacket has a squared neckline and is cut from waxed denim, and a trench is cut to jacket-length and has a curved sleeve. “It really felt like we landed in a good place after Paris, we could really feel, ‘okay, this is who we are,’ and not be afraid of taking some of the really core values back; owning them and working with them,” the designer said on a call. “The Ganni girl has grown up—and I think that’s very natural because [she] is also an extension of me.”
The Ganni girl might have matured, but on the evidence of the lookbook, (photographed at Copenhagen’s SMK Museum) her vibe is forever young. That is not to say that the collection lacks sophistication—a pair of roomy fil coupé jacquard pants (made from recycled wool and organic cotton) paired with a slouchy sweater look elevated and relaxed. Ditto for the organic cotton “summer tweed”-and-denim pieces. This collection will arrive in stores when the weather is warm; among the more easy-breezy looks are gingham polos and midi-length yoked denim skirts, one with eyelet details. There’s also a semi-sheer striped knit set, perfect for traveling, and a baroque foulard-print pajama set in yellow and black that conjures Miami in the ’80s and ’90s. Also available in a sunny hue (and many other colors) are Ganni’s new skate-style sneakers. Made using the brand’s Fabrics of the Future arm, they feature butterfly embroidery and a shoe charm.
If there’s a bit of a grab-bag feeling to this offering—connecting the dots between a sweet pinafore dress, a chunky knit, and a sexy bubble skirt is a bit tenuous—there’s also a confidence and strength in refreshing the brand’s hits. Plus, it’s a different way of looking at sustainability. Changing for the sake of change is démodé; good design has longevity.