Gaurav Gupta was forced to cancel his fall couture show in Paris last month due to an urgent personal matter; this collection was presented in a private showroom and via a video on social media instead. It was an unfortunate circumstance for Gupta, who joined the Paris couture schedule in January of last year and has since enjoyed a hefty boost in global attention thanks to celebrities including Beyoncé on-stage during her Renaissance World Tour, Mindy Kaling at the 2024 Met Gala, and Kelly Rowland at the Cannes Film Festival.
Walking through his collection over a call, Gupta said that he looked at an ancient Indian mantra that highlights the idea of “jyotirgamaya,” which he explained translates from Sanskrit as the journey from darkness to light. This idea was evident in his use of color, with a tight palette that ranges from black to a soft sand tone with hints of deep burgundy. Gupta has made it his signature to explore spiritual inspirations through intricate embellishments and sculptural shapes, but over time his silhouettes have evolved to adapt to who he is dressing, becoming more pragmatic and considered. This balance was particularly present in this lineup.
“I wanted to make core pieces that are unique yet more wearable,” said Gupta of the more understated pieces in this collection: a corseted LBD, draped skirts in black and ivory, a couple of tailored jackets, and a fantastic pair of flared trousers. among them. Some of these received the Gupta treatment with ornamental metal plates or mesmerizing embroideries, but others were left plain, breaking promising ground for the designer.
“It’s hard to not have every look be dramatic and embroidered and beaded, but I’ve made a conscious effort the past three seasons in Paris to see clients and understand what they’re buying and wearing,” he said. “I’m seeing the lifestyle of the client, sometimes they need a gown or something very unique, but sometimes they need something else they can dress up or dress down.” This newfound practicality is likely to grant Gupta some essential staying power.