Giambattista Valli on his timeless bridal collection unveiled at BBFW

Shortly after his debut bridal runway show, Giambattista Valli found solace in one of the upper chambers of Barcelona’s historic Llotja del Mar. The grand medieval structure, which once housed the Public Bank of Catalonia and nurtured talents like Picasso and Dalí, is a familiar backdrop for Valli, accustomed as he is to the grandeur of Versailles salons and haute couture’s unique designs. Removing his signature black sunglasses, he spoke candidly about the industry.

Marking his foray into bridal fashion, Valli unveiled the ‘Love Collection’ during Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week on April 18. The show, attended by over 450 guests including style icons like Olivia Palermo and actress Hiba Abouk, featured 30 designs from his first two collections of the line. This event continued the legacy of esteemed labels like Elie Saab, Viktor&Rolf, and Marchesa, who have previously graced the Barcelona Bridal Night.

FashionNetwork.com engaged with the founder of his eponymous label, a venture backed by François-Henri Pinault’s investment arm, Artemis, to discuss his venture into Barcelona, the haute couture realm, his creative journey, and the essence of his bridal collections. Currently available only on-demand, these collections will soon reach the U.S. through “trunk shows.”

FashionNetwork.com: Your participation in Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week marks your first bridal runway show. What inspired this collection?

Giambattista Valli: This collection embodies a moment that transcends fashion—it’s about timeless suspension. It’s not confined to yesterday, today, or tomorrow. In this series, each design is individually named, reflecting the unique attitudes and values of the ‘Valli girls’, allowing me to engage in a dialogue with them. Their diverse personalities demand distinct expressions. I don’t impose; I envision each dress for my friends and name them accordingly. Some are more sensual, others more romantic, some fragile, others austere, with dresses varying in weight and lightness, mirroring different character types.

FNW: How did the concept of a complete bridal line come about?

G.V.: I view it not merely as a bridal line but as a response to frequent requests. I’m fortunate to design for magnificent weddings and to work with incredible women who seek collaborative projects. Wearing a Giambattista Valli wedding dress has become a statement. I didn’t want to confine bridal wear to an elitist corner of haute couture; I wanted to make it accessible to a broader circle of friends, geographically speaking. It’s about translating my DNA of excellence in a more accessible way while maintaining that extraordinary aura.

That’s why I chose to name this project the ‘Love Collection’, a beautiful moment of love. These dresses are suitable for weddings or a party. Interestingly, celebrities often request pieces from the Love Collection for red carpet events, so I don’t view it strictly as a bridal line. More than anything, they are dreamy dresses for specific moments.

FNW: Who is the target audience for these designs?

G.V.: It’s broad. Some people will like it, some people won’t. I strive to remain true to my audience while being open to new audiences and generations. My style is distinct, and I’ve always been true to it. It’s part of my identity and, besides, it brings positive results.

Someone cautiously approached me and said, “Finally, someone who isn’t ashamed to make bridal designs.” If others are embarrassed by bridal fashion, that’s their issue, not mine. Personally, I dislike the term “bridal,” which is why I called it the Love Collection, better encapsulating my concept of extraordinary dresses suited for both the red carpet and weddings. That’s the key to the project’s success. Weddings are precious moments, and it’s a dream to be part of them. My lifelong dream was to create a haute couture house—a grand idea when I was very young. As this dream gradually becomes a reality, it’s wonderful to share it with others. I don’t judge what others do, but my life philosophy is that nothing makes me happier than making someone else happy. So, if I can contribute to someone’s joy at a crucial moment in their life, that’s extraordinary. It means I’ve done my job well.

FNW: Why do you think there are negative preconceptions about bridal fashion, when wedding dresses often culminate haute couture shows?

G.V.: I have no idea. Perhaps because some designers focus too much on trends, which I don’t. I love timelessness and creating long-lasting pieces that can stay in your wardrobe for a long time, pieces that evoke good memories, ones you don’t want to part with. It’s the antithesis of disposability, so it’s also my way of making a statement.

FNW: Should bridal fashion be more inclusively open?

G.V.: My job is to create clothes that people can interpret in the best way possible. I have no limits. In the first collection, I designed a lace suit. I think things are flexible and adaptable. Want to wear a Valli design? You’re more than welcome. It’s a large family, a broad community. The bigger, the better.

FNW: How does the creative process for bridal designs differ from haute couture and ready-to-wear?

G.V.: The Love Collection and haute couture share similarities. I conceive each dress as if it were a collection unto itself. Each dress has a personality, a concept, and I imagine them independently, like separate bubbles. In contrast, ready-to-wear collections are complete wardrobes. I envision them like a piece of music with different notes, whereas in haute couture, each dress is a distinct song.

Bridal fashion is a listening process. You sit and listen. Sometimes people come with a very clear idea of what they want, while others have only vague images, unsure of what they want or don’t want. So, you have to take their hand and offer them something unexpected to surprise them.

FNW: How did the opportunity to showcase in Barcelona arise, and how do you assess the event?

G.V: I think Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week has established itself as a key international event. In Europe, it’s the most important bridal event, and globally, it’s at the top. I see this in the reaction of commercial agents—it’s amazing. The collaboration emerged organically; BBFW proposed the idea, and I found it intriguing, a mutual opportunity. So, I said, let’s do it!

It’s also true that I like to do things right, choosing everything carefully, very perfectionist in a universe of excellence. So, my only condition for participating was to do things properly. And I believe the outcome was up to standard.

FNW: How important is it for the brand to organize shows off-schedule or in other capitals?

G.V: In bridal fashion, I’m one of the few brands that do haute couture. Many talk about ‘couture’ but few actually do haute couture. They are tremendously different. Haute couture originated in Paris, and it’s beautiful to maintain the presentation of collections there. I think it’s even necessary to protect the appeal of ‘haute couture’. However, I also consider it important to have an itinerant component, as we’ve done by coming to Barcelona or through our “trunk shows.” It’s a way to carry the cultural story of haute couture, which is in my DNA, to other places.

FNW: From a business perspective, what role do bridal designs play in the firm’s operations?

G.V.: For now, it’s a part that is starting its own story, as we previously only had two collections of ten dresses each. With this third collection, the business is truly beginning to take off, finding its own market niche. Clearly, I have priority markets in my strategic sights, but for now, there aren’t any markets that particularly stand out.