2024 wasn’t the UK’s year for festivals: torrential rain left Brits sinking into a sea of mud at Download, while Glastonbury was slammed for its sound issues, but what if there was an alternative? Enter the aptly named Exit Festival in Novi Sad, Serbia….
After a month’s worth of rain fell in Britain in just one week at the start of July, I was ready to leave Britain’s excuse for a summer behind, and when I touched down in Serbia, I was greeted by the polar opposite – sweltering heat. It was almost 40C, with night-time temperatures often reaching more than double the English equivalent. Yet once I’d adjusted and slathered on some sunscreen, I was all set to discover how this multi-award winning but criminally under-publicised festival compares to the UK.
The dry, hot climate meant there wasn’t the slightest hint of mud in sight, unlike Download, where even wearing wellies didn’t save revellers from getting their feet submerged in a thick layer of sludge. Over there, it was scarcely possible to walk, let alone dance or jump, but at Exit there’s way more than the soil beneath people’s feet – in fact, there’s a secret labyrinth of tunnels that were once used for military purposes and even a disused underground train line.
Unlike at British festivals, these are not mere fields but the grounds of the magnificent Petrovaradin Fortress. Spectacular sunsets – and sunrises – light up the Danube from panoramic viewpoints reached by climbing steps up to the venue’s iconic clock tower.
Then there’s the music: Glastonbury might end at midnight, but at Exit, the celebrations continue until 7am – and after that, the afterparty is in full swing. There’s a diverse range of acts across 40 stages catering to every possible musical taste – from punk artists sporting spiky Mohicans and declaring that “punk isn’t dead” to rock legends belting out classic anthems, and from chart-topping pop stars with lyrics everyone’s able to sing along with to electronic DJs, all-girl rap groups, reggaeton, techno and much more. If it exists as a genre, Exit is playing it.
Meanwhile, it’s not just about seeking out the names you already know – I also scouted out a local Serbian girl band, Pretty Loud, which mixes the nation’s folk music with Roma and Bollywood sounds and even rap, while swivelling their hips on the festival’s Fusion Stage.
As a relatively undiscovered act so far, fewer people than expected were jostling in the crowds, making for a chilled experience.
Then when Tom Morello hit the main stage, it was a million miles away from the time I watched a similar festival setlist in Britain back in his Rage Against The Machine days.
Back then, constant uncontrolled crowd-surfing meant people near the front of the audience risked getting booted in the head, but in stark contrast, the vibes in Serbia were friendly, respectful and non-aggressive.
However, there’s no doubt Serbians understood Tom’s message about music as a form of revolution, as the festival was first formed in 2000 as a protest movement.
Most had been seeking to exit the war era after conflict raged through the nation in the 1990s, leaving some buildings still scarred with bullet holes to this day.
The following year, the festival morphed into the award-winning music-filled one that Serbs know today.
The Black Eyed Peas set the scene this year when they broke into Don’t Stop The Party, while singer-DJ John Newman’s finale was equally memorable.
Fireworks ripped above the stage as he belted out Love Me Again, sparking an explosion not just of the sky but of the heart.
He later revealed it was his “best” rendition of the song yet, across the 11 years since he first released it as a single.
It’s easy to see why Exit is a magical experience for both festival-goers and artists alike, with the Prodigy loving it so much they headlined six times, dwarfing Coldplay’s five Glastonbury performances.
Meanwhile, perhaps the most comedic moment of the festival was when Scotsman Walter Buchan of The Exploited hollered his way through his set, letting loose a string of F-bombs.
He might have broken a world record for the amount of times “F*** off” was uttered in one hour, repeating the curse in every single song – and then a little boy on his father’s shoulders came into view, shouting along happily.
Perhaps the language barrier meant his dad didn’t realise that someone his age chanting expletives could be a problem – and it was a light-hearted moment of entertainment.
One other thing that truly sets Exit apart from other festivals is the price: four-day tickets, at last check, were just under £100, in comparison with Glastonbury’s £360, while hotels are inexpensive and camping, for those willing to rough it, was priced at just £28.
Not only is it cheaper than Glastonbury, but even after accounting for the price of flights, Serbia is well worth a visit in its own right.
Touching down in Belgrade, the nation’s capital, on the birthday of the country’s most famous scientist. Nikola Tesla – the man who invented the electricity system in its current form – I was blown away.
The eateries in the capital specialise in tender, flavoursome, slow-cooked fare which rivals that of any European city but at lower prices – and I was satiated by my meal at iconic restaurant Dva Jelena.
Then there were the hotel breakfast buffets, with potato wedges and chocolate cakes worth dragging yourself out of bed for.
Meanwhile a residence favoured by Hollywood A-listers also stands out on the skyline: Hotel Moskva is said to have been visited by both Johnny Depp and Brad Pitt in the past, who reportedly fell in love with the almond cake on offer during their trips to the city.
Novi Sad, the city which hosts the festival, is just a one hour drive away – and it’s full of unexpected tributes to Britain.
There’s one pub dedicated to Only Fools and Horses, another called the London which is inspired by our Underground and even a vaping shop bizarrely emblazoned with Winston Churchill’s face.
The street to search for British memorabilia is Laze Telečkog, where various live music spots and pubs can be found – and nearby is a leafy park named after London’s Hyde Park.
For better weather, cheaper prices, tastier food, more respectful crowds and a festival on the grounds of a fortress delivering a different experience than any I’d ever been to before, Exit fits the bill perfectly.
I only wish I’d thought of it sooner…