Forget midlife crisis — turning 50 definitely suits Iceberg. Creative director James Long marked the anniversary of the brand with a collection that signaled a more mature aesthetic, showcasing one of his most convincing lineups in recent memory.
As often in life, simplicity was the key to success, since Long embraced a more streamlined approach while looking back at the brand’s heritage to seek solutions that could serve the fast-paced lifestyle of the brand’s urban crew today. The company’s knitwear expertise and a strong — almost exclusive — focus on outerwear helped him strip down concepts and convey a straightforward message.
The best options included plaid zip-up coats that referenced both Iceberg’s codes and Long’s British roots, and colorful knitted double-breasted versions coming with matching cardigans underneath that made the best impact on the runway.
“There’s a lot more texture and fabrication in the collection and I feel like it’s a bit more grown-up and a bit more developed because it was such an important season,” Long said backstage.
Other highlights played with the juxtaposition of fabrics, as seen in reversible coats that had sleek faux leather and herringbone fabric bonded together, but still respected Iceberg’s rock ‘n’ roll vibe with raw-cut finishes.
A series of faux leather biker jackets with fringed details further went in that direction, with Long adding zippers and grommets along knits or the few chiffon dresses and pleated skirts that peeked from coats. Still, these looks were more a complement to the outerwear and lacked enough appeal to stand on their own.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.