Johanna Ortiz stepped up her traditional small presentation into a runway-style experience at Le Collège des Bernardins, a former monastery built in the 13th century.
The grand arches and ancient stone walls served as a dramatic backdrop for her bold take on femininity. Ortiz explored florals for fall, with first looks in a monochrome palette, before touches of color emerged in poppy red, then burst into full bloom of orange, crimson, coral and rust. Big prints were the core of the collection, with stems swirled around skirts and dresses, and flowers rendered in embroidery with subtle sparkle.
A nude silk organza shift was embroidered with flowers floating across the bodice, a delicate demonstration of craft. Ortiz noted it took upward of 600 hours of handiwork to create.
Ortiz doesn’t have to jump on the cowboy-core trend; traces have been there for several seasons. This time it made an appearance as boots peeking out from full-length gowns. Laser-cut leather skirts and coordinates in deep wine kept her right on trend too.
With florals, the Colombian designer also wanted to step out of her comfort zone (fangirls don’t worry, her palm tree prints are still present), in part because she’s about to take a big leap: opening a flagship in New York City next month.
The store will open on Madison Avenue, incorporating the full Ortiz world with homewares, resort and ready-to-wear collections of her growing lifestyle brand. There will also be an enlarged accessories section showcasing her raffia bags, which have had limited retail play so far.
Ortiz said that some business minds have advised she could move production to locations with less expensive labor. But she has vowed to stay put and elevate Colombian craftsmanship to rival that of European artisans through her eponymous school. Working with the local craftswomen and building her business from that foundation to the new flagship has solidified her brand.
“It’s like I’m in a transition period, and having that purpose is more clear than when I started,” she said.
With the easy elegance of the collection and new retail, her universe is about to expand.