Kent & Curwen’s chief creative officer Daniel Kearns turned the Royal Academy Schools into an English boarding school plucked out of an Evelyn Waugh novel, but with some serious attitude and uniforms that would have any principal pulling out their hair.
The Irish designer’s second go at the 98-year-old brand launched womenswear and it was a hoot.
Short shorts worn under pleated skirts that were opened at the sides for pocket space; scarves printed with the Kent & Curwen emblem of an English rose lightly danced in the air like a hero with a cape; bomber jackets lined with traditional checks; school shirts written all over with Sharpie-style scribbles and writing; backless loafers lined with faux fur, and a beautifully tailored cinched white overcoat with a necktie lining hiding under the lapel was top of the class.
Kearns also found inspiration in the start of the new school year – his son has just left home to go to university. He’s been studying the various school uniforms found across London and mixed them up with his own version of preppy that edged close to a rebellious Sloane Ranger.
“London has an eclectic young generation that’s so interested in culture and music. But it’s a pivotal time for many, like my son. They’re leaving school, the school uniform, and the conformity of [strict institutions] behind. They have this moment in life when they’re stepping into university or work life and are creating a wardrobe and identity for themselves,” said the designer in a preview interview.
Beyond school uniforms, Kearns perfected Kent & Curwen’s signature rugby shirts by manipulating them into shift dresses with a slight diagonal pleat and updated its signature cricket sweaters with the three stacked lions logo placed above the brand’s initials in all-caps.
His son, Bailey, approved of his dad’s designs. “I’m just just incredibly proud of everything he’s done – it’s taken a lot of hard work. I loved the tailoring and the trench coats were really nice,” he said.
The brand won’t have to try very hard to target a younger audience as Kearns’ will be spreading the word throughout campus.