“I’m into caps right now,” said a bubbly J.J. Martin emerging from her studio in Milan, both her hands touching the visor of her baseball hat. The accessory spelling “joy” in capital letters was a perfect manifesto of her brand’s ethos, yet it wasn’t the most interesting part of her OOTD: she styled a vintage La DoubleJ skirt — a frilled midi style in popping yellow with colorful embroideries — with a simple white tank top.
Being a print lover, the choice of the plain top inevitably stood out and pointed toward the attitude Martin embraced with her resort 2025 collection — how she’s expanding La DoubleJ’s world to include more everyday shapes in solid colors.
“It’s less of a print overload and more of a print evolution,” she said of her creative approach and overarching goal of pivoting the brand “from a print player to a complete wardrobe” provider.
Hence, more monochrome options were integrated into her lexicon. These encompassed her take on a tuxedo shirt, with its tone-on-tone plastron on the front the only ornamentation on the elongated, crisp silhouette; satin black pants and soft sweaters crafted from cashmere and merino wool-blends, as well as crushed velvet dresses revealing a more subdued yet still impactful side of La DoubleJ’s signature partywear.
Martin softened the boldness of the brand’s distinctive prints in more digestible graphic patterns on jacquard mini frocks, flared pants and knits; checkered motifs on wool bomber jackets, and faded florals on chiffon skirts. In the same vein, she turned archival La DoubleJ colorful prints into black and white with occasional ocher touches for a more laid-back effect.
But those loyally heading to the brand for its vivid patterns weren’t left behind: Martin also put her flamboyant hand to everything from beachwear to occasionwear, passing through tailoring, outerwear and new shapes, such as beautiful capes and maxi shawls in heraldic motifs and an oversize coat in leopard printed brushed wool. The sparkly surfaces of sequined double-face puffers and fil coupé separates and flowy dresses added to the patterns galore and reinforced her vision of joyful dressing.
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