Were it not for the irresistible lure of Lemaire, people attending today’s show might have opted to remain under the covers, such was the dreary, cold, wet weather this morning. As it happens, the collection duly accommodated both scenarios: soft underpinnings and pajamas for staying in that, through deft layering, do double duty as city dressing topped with outerwear to withstand the elements.
Held for the first time in the brand’s headquarters off the Place des Vosges, the show’s staging comprised a raised, circular runway conceived by artist Fran Cottell. As the models (diverse in age and background, if not size) entered from the courtyard, they made the loop with clever yet natural choreography—lingering long enough so we would notice doubled-up, tone-on-tone jackets; twirling to accentuate the movement of a ballet-style wrap skirt; proceeding with purpose in a relaxed, cacao-colored suit or total look in limestone. One model wearing black stirrup leggings, a sheer overskirt and block heels had a pair of derbies swinging from her bag. No more “hiding flat shoes for the subway.” Somehow in Lemaire, effortless and impeccable coexist.
Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire explained that they sought a more intimate encounter with the clothes while wanting to welcome people into their environment. “Humbly and honestly,” said Tran. “For us, it’s a beautiful story of building a collective with strong values and a passion for doing good things,” added Lemaire. “Not so many independent brands in Paris have a studio, an atelier, all the departments in one building, so we wanted people to feel all of this.”
There’s feeling as perception and then there’s feeling a fabric next to the body. In a walkthrough, the duo singled out the second-skin materials—the ribbed viscose-silk blends, the superfine merino knits, the fluid jersey—that would create a sensual effect. There was even a piece with removable garters (and corresponding stockings), as though testing the idea of Lemaire lingerie (yes, please).
In the meantime, there is something admirable about a brand that will show carry-over pieces—several coat styles, jackets, and pant silhouettes—from one season to the next. This is also validating to lovers of Lemaire: to know their cashmere coat or rain shell in Japanese nylon remain relevant. But the duo clearly pursues novelty, and this season they enlisted Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters of FreelingWaters to paint a pattern that could be adapted to a print. The artists’ undulating woodcut motif along with delicate embroideries and bits of broderie anglaise all brought pleasing decorative interest to the familiar tone-on-tone-on-tone approach. Signature Croissant bags were newly adorned with small silvery balls while a hiking-trainer hybrid was the perfect shape to complement Lemaire’s various volumes.
While guests were close enough to spot a small brush dangling from the waist of a model, they likely missed other found-object accessories such as jewelry punctuated with glass cat eyes or a spiffier version of the Swiss Army knife. For all the elements, the overall look was ineffably clean. Lemaire denied any magic here, offering, “we just can’t help layering.”