Throughout almost every collection of her career, Marina Moscone has opened her look books and shows with tailoring. But for spring, she went in a softer direction.
“There’s much more of maybe a softness, a prettiness, to things, a little bit of a flowiness. I think that softness was probably always there, it just needed something to tap out. That’s probably motherhood and my [3-month-old] son,” Moscone said at her Il Buco Alimentari-set presentation.
Her first look, a pale gray V-neck satin dress, nicely intertwined her pillars of twisting and draping, as did little cape-sleeved backs and twisted strap details. But it was her breezy organza voile overlays and sweet polka dot frocks that more directly signified her mindset.
Cut on the bias with naturally scalloped edges, the overlays offered a bit of a vintage lingerie feel atop new takes on smocking, crafted by embroidering together four polka dots from her print. A few of these dresses also had chiffon inserts, trims and overlays (like an adorable bubble-hemmed mini), resulting in looks that were as easy to throw on as they were chic. The motif extended into a foulard-inspired side-tie dress in navy and red — a softened play on her signature tension between masculine and feminine.
“The silhouettes are very not overly studied, they’re very easy — it’s boxy, it’s slips, it’s sheath dresses. I’d say the fabrics are very worked but I want putting it on to be easy, even through its meticulous fabric and workmanship in the embroidery,” Moscone said.
From lightweight technical bonded crinkle utility trousers and box-pleated roomy layers to floral cotton canvas jacquard styles (nicely juxtaposed with harder perforated leather loose bra tops), Moscone’s softer hand nicely recontextualized and upheld her dedication to craft.