Marta Coca of 080 Barcelona Fashion discusses sustainability, brand growth, need for a generational shift

080 Barcelona Fashion has concluded its most international and sustainable edition yet. The event, which took place from October 14 to 17, returned to its iconic venue, the Modernist Enclosure of Sant Pau, supported by a robust budget of €2 million.

FashionNetwork.com sat down with the director of the platform, Marta Coca, to reflect on this edition, which was notably characterised by its strong emphasis on internationalisation and environmental sustainability, mainly through its 080 Reborn initiative.

FashionNetwork.com: What is your overall assessment of this edition?

Marta Coca: While we’re still awaiting the final data to come in, I believe the outcome has been very positive. The shows have been packed, not only with brand ambassadors and friends but also with an increased presence from the press and influencers. So, at the moment, we are quite pleased with how things turned out.

FNW: How did the organization compare to previous editions?

M.C.: Given that this venue has hosted numerous editions over the years, the production side of things has remained largely the same. We made a few subtle adjustments, such as changes in lighting, but we prefer to retain what has proven successful. The real challenge, however, continues to lie in communication, even more so than in production. Our focus is on finding ways to grow in that area, while working within the constraints of the same budget.

FNW: What were the key innovations in this edition?

M.C.: The main innovations always emerge from the brands themselves. 080 is a platform that consistently strives to feature a diverse array of brands. Some of the more established brands participate in both seasons, but we also have many timeless collections that only need to be showcased once a year or every two years. This allows us, despite having a limited number of “slots,” to refresh the calendar with new names, whether they are emerging brands or more established labels.

In each season, and especially in this one, a significant portion of the 080 line-up features brands that have never before been part of the platform, either because it’s their first show or because they were previously involved in different platforms. We have Zoe Oms, Alvar Merino, Gau, Alsedà, Reparto, Inma Linares… Considering that we are a modest platform, with only 25 “slots” —one of which is dedicated to our own content, 080 Reborn— bringing in so many new brands really adds a breath of fresh air to the lineup.

Another major development is our growing focus on media, with the creation of content directly on the runway, in addition to the content produced by 080 itself. This is why we’re forging many collaborations and synergies with media outlets and influencers as part of the digitalisation strategy we initiated in response to the pandemic. Although the event is very much a physical experience, our communication strategy is heavily concentrated in the digital realm.

FNW: How do you select new participating brands?

M.C.: Since we are a public platform, we release open calls through the official gazette, which is equivalent in Catalonia to the [Spanish government’s official gazette] BOE. Anyone can apply as long as they meet the eligibility criteria. Once the applications are in, a jury conducts a selection process, evaluating the creativity and quality of the designs, but also assessing how closely the brand aligns with the 080 values that we seek to champion. We consider factors such as size inclusivity—even if the larger sizes are not featured on the runway, they should at least be available for purchase. Sustainability is also a key criterion, practically a must. Additionally, we assess the brand’s potential to leverage the opportunities provided by 080 to see long-term business growth, which doesn’t usually happen overnight. Some brands do see immediate results, especially those operating on a “see now, buy now” model, but it varies.

We are particularly pleased that many brands that began showcasing their collections at 080 Barcelona Fashion two or three seasons ago (like Outsiders Division) have told me that the platform has helped increase their sales and reach international audiences. Even though we’re not a trade fair and we don’t specifically target buyers, more and more brands are telling us that within a year they are seeing commercial benefits, which is incredibly valuable.

FNW: Sustainability is a key focus of this edition. How have you addressed it specifically?

M.C.: We place a strong emphasis on sustainability, primarily in the October editions. Recent industry data has only reaffirmed our conviction that this is the path we need to follow. The figures from the first half of 2024 revealed a 1.3% decline in business across Spain, which doesn’t seem too significant. However, the CPI dropped by 12%, indicating that production has either been maintained or even increased. This goes against the goals set forth by the New Green Deal, and everything we stand for. Despite all the sustainability initiatives that public companies are pursuing, continuing to manufacture at this pace will become unsustainable due to sheer accumulation of waste.

This is precisely the message behind 080 Reborn, with its slogan “Make fashion last.” It’s crucial for the public and the media to understand hybrid models that combine new and second-hand fashion as a likely reality for the future. We want fashion brands to continue growing their businesses, but we also acknowledge that endless production growth is simply not viable. As long as global production, manufacturing, and consumption trends continue at their current pace, we will continue providing a platform for these types of initiatives. Our mission is to raise awareness among the public so that when brands are eventually required to adopt this hybrid business model, it will be easier for them to understand and navigate the market.

FNW: Where does the platform’s internationalisation strategy stand at this point?

M.C.: We’re in a very favourable position right now, as we’re starting to reap the rewards of the groundwork we’ve laid over the past few seasons. From this season onwards, our internationalisation strategy will involve more refinement, so to speak. It’s no longer about expanding haphazardly, but rather about focusing on the brands we have, identifying which ones are performing well, determining where we want to project them into new markets, and evaluating the type of communication, influencers, and media they are connected with. It’s no longer just about how many people are talking about us, but about who is talking about us and in what context. Moving forward, we’ll be focusing more on qualitative KPIs (key performance indicators) for internationalisation, rather than purely quantitative metrics.

FNW: How did the Louis Vuitton sponsorship come about?

M.C.: It was a one-off financial sponsorship. This year, the brand acted as a sponsor for the America’s Cup and they chose to present their Resort collection here. They also organised a series of events in the city, so we reached out to them in search of support.

FNW: And how do you evaluate that sponsorship?

M.C.: The outcome has been very positive. It allowed us to keep up with the rising costs in Barcelona, as the America’s Cup caused prices to increase across the board — hotels, logistics, travel… While it’s been highly beneficial for the city overall, the pressure on costs has grown substantially. We were fortunate to have the support of [Louis Vuitton], which made it possible for us to stage a fashion week that would have been challenging otherwise.

FNW: What are the main organisational differences between the October and April editions?

M.C.: A while ago, we stepped away from the international calendar and started hosting the event in April and October because the weather is ideal during these months. As for differences, the October editions allow for the participation of swimwear and beachwear brands, which is why you’ll find labels like All That She Loves or Guillermina Baeza, whereas the April editions do not include these categories. We also place a stronger emphasis on sustainability in October with the 080 Reborn initiative. Meanwhile, in April, we like to focus more on “aesthetics,” often incorporating digital art. Ideally, we’d like the April editions to adopt a more multidisciplinary approach outside the runway, with a greater emphasis on art. However, the type of attendees between the two editions generally remains the same. The key difference lies in the content rather than in the overall strategy.

FNW: What was the budget for this edition, and how was it primarily allocated?

M.C.: We worked with the same €2 million budget as previous editions. A significant portion of that goes towards communication, which requires substantial investment. Nowadays, events are very “phygital,” meaning everything needs to be recorded for on-demand consumption, in addition to live streaming, and we need to adapt to that reality. In the past, almost all our budget went into content creation, but we later realised that 080 is, above all, a communication platform. It makes no sense to organise 25 shows and then lack the resources to communicate them effectively. We now prefer to create less content, but select them more carefully, ensuring they cater to different communities depending on the edition.

FNW: How do you view the evolution of the fashion sector and the role of the fashion industry in Catalonia?

M.C.: I believe the sector is currently in a very strong position. The government’s industrial policy is very supportive of revitalising manufacturing, and there are departments dedicated to attracting foreign investment. Recently, there has been a surge of emerging talent in this sector. LCI has just opened a new campus, and IED is running its “Human/AI Design Challenge”… There’s a solid foundation of international talent being developed in Barcelona, which makes it crucial to create an ecosystem that supports businesses in feeling comfortable resuming production here. I don’t think we’re lacking in production infrastructure, as we have a great deal of specialisation, but what we do need is a generational shift, which is something that can’t be achieved overnight.

The bigger challenge lies in the market—stimulating local sales. In the end, most brands, whether large or small, are reporting strong figures thanks to international markets. Locally, there’s a consumption pattern that heavily favours fast fashion, and over time, this will become unsustainable. A platform alone can’t change everything, but in my view, we need to nurture an ecosystem that connects talent, production, and sales in a more sustainable way.

FNW: Looking ahead, what new directions do you foresee for the platform?

M.C.: In both the previous and current editions, we’ve focused on consolidating the platform’s core values. Moving forward, we aim to explore new ways of connecting and consuming, as well as new formats of expression. It’s a vast field, but with all the digital tools and campaigns brands are using today, our platform must evolve into a fully hybrid model—both digitally and physically. In addition to hosting the biannual fashion week, the platform should remain open year-round, allowing brands that operate through drops or capsule collections, and those not following traditional calendars, to showcase their digital content throughout the year. In doing so, we are also betting on “edutainment,” blending education with entertainment.