Missoni presented its men’s spring collection at Pitti Uomo, marking a change of direction for the brand. While Filippo Grazioli continues in his role as womenswear creative director, menswear was designed by an in-house team.
Ottavio Missoni’s charisma was once again the inspiration underpinning the collection, which drew on his talent for experimenting with the technicalities of knitwear production. Amping up the innovation factor, textiles were manufactured in-house featuring yarns referencing the automotive industry. A luminous sheen brightened surfaces woven with the reflective threads (“a sort of a masculine version of lurex” said a spokesperson) usually used for the stitching of seats in luxury cars. Cobalt crystals gave a laquered feel to finishings, and rubbery coating lent an elastic flexibility to relaxed knitted trousers and jumpers.
Ottavio’s signature uniform was a multicolored cardigan that he wore even at formal occasions where a tux would’ve been required. Here it was reprised as the collection’s hero, in a palette of neutral sun-bleached colors that toned down the vibrancy of chevron and fiammato patterns. The fit was kept comfortable and soft, with a lived-in feel suggesting a spontaneous, laid-back way of dressing.