MILAN — Gearing up to present the latest Moncler Genius iteration in Shanghai, chairman and chief executive officer Remo Ruffini spoke to WWD about the decision to hold the event in the Chinese city.
Dubbing Shanghai as “the City of Genius,” the luxury brand unveiled its latest roster of creative talents cocreating the Moncler Genius collection. They include some new names and some friends of the house: Frgmt by Hiroshi Fujiwara; Gilga Farm by Donald Glover, the American actor, musician, writer, director, and producer; Chinese multidisciplinary artist LuLu Li; Mercedes-Benz by Nigo, the creative director of Kenzo and Human Made; Palm Angels, created and designed by Francesco Ragazzi; A$AP Rocky; Willow Smith; Rick Owens; Jil Sander, designed by Luke and Lucie Meier, and Edward Enninful, editorial adviser at British Vogue and global creative and cultural adviser of Vogue.
The brainchild of Ruffini, Moncler Genius was introduced in 2018 and has been designed over the years by the likes of Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson and Craig Green, to name a few.
In addition to its signature line and Genius, Moncler includes the Grenoble collections. In the first half of the year, Moncler’s sales in Asia (which includes APAC, Japan and South Korea) amounted to 513 million euros, up 12 percent, and representing 49.3 percent of the total. In the second quarter, revenues in the region grew by 6 percent at constant exchange rates, driven by strong growth registered in Japan, supported mostly by tourists, as well as by a positive performance in mainland China. Commenting at the time on the performance, management expressed confidence in the additional potential of China.
Here, Ruffini reveals that he has even bigger plans for Moncler Genius and insists that the designers who cocreate it are the real geniuses.
WWD: Why did you choose Shanghai for the event? Is it significant that it takes place as eyes are on the slowdown of China’s growth?
Remo Ruffini: In life, I believe in giving back to those that have granted you a lot. From the very first store, the Chinese immediately accepted us and rewarded us. I thought it would take years, but they were super fast, and as far back as 2009, they understood our strategy and vision. I am very happy, they are a wonderful people with a very strong energy and innovative — like Moncler.
WWD: What is your perception of this market and how do you think it can evolve?
R.R.: I don’t have a crystal ball, but as a strategy we never think of tomorrow but of the future. From 2003 [when Ruffini took over], we have gone through so many wars and [geopolitical] crises, but overcame them leveraging cultural innovation and energy. I live through energy.
WWD: Are you confident in the resilience of luxury?
R.R.: Luxury is a big market and it is important to remain among those brands that can benefit from being part of it but you must respect the brand, always. I have no doubt, I am confident that if you have a unique brand and a clear communication and point of view, you can be positive about the future.
WWD: The roster of designers and cocreators you choose for Moncler Genius is always very diverse. How does the selection work?
R.R.: The designers are the geniuses. When I decided on the business model for Moncler Genius, I thought I should give it this name and bring new energy and a new concept each season. There is a solid base [of friends of the house] with the cocreators, but always in a contrast of energy. A$AP Rocky and Jil Sander, their style is the opposite and this brings strong energy, as is a mix of cultures and experiences. The location, with 8,000 people, will feel the energy and transmit it in turn.
WWD: What does the future hold for Moncler Genius?
R.R.: It needs an even stronger evolution. I always put myself to the test, and Moncler Genius deserves even greater energy and innovation.