The indie fashion brand is alive and well in New York. While mid-sized designers in Europe have had troubled few seasons, here in New York they all seem pretty vibrant.
Monse very much in the mood
No better example of that than Monse, by the duo of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who are very much on a roll. Last month they had a brilliant moment dressing former First Lady Michelle Obama for the Democratic Convention in Chicago in a stunning sleeveless officer’s tuxedo suit with dissecting lapels worn with capri pants. This Saturday in the Meatpacking District they staged the most compelling collection of the day.
Like Michelle’s look, the key to the collection was the meeting of artful deconstruction and fine tailoring, seen in a great series of blazers, cinched mess jackets and cutaway frock coats and fracks. While a cricket blazer with elongated sleeves worn with a mini skirt made of upside town trousers was really fantastic. Paris Hilton in another version of the same look – sat down in the front row – sending the paparazzi into meltdown.
The duo were on less certain ground with their weekend sportswear, with far too many stripped jersey tops and dresses, all unfathomably paired with banal loafers.
However, for evening they went into over-drive with striking sequined screen goddess columns. Made in glistening metallic and paired with high heel boots they had great authority. Before Grammy and Emmy winning actress and comedian Tiffany Haddish finished the action in a green satin mannish pants suit winning the day’s biggest cheer.
Khaite: November Rain
Guns n Roses’ rock anthem November Rain backed up the beginning of the latest Khaite show, and it felt like the song’s melodrama rather infected this collection.
For the past several seasons, Khaite, the brainchild of designer Catherine Holstein, has been the most inventive show in New York. Not this season, even if there were some great tailored clothes.
Unveiled inside an austere all-white show space, dissected by rotating metal panels, the collection’s big hit was a series of tuxedos and men’s jackets cropped half way up the torso.
Holstein is to be applauded for taking plenty of risks with this collection, but far too often her transparent gauze and chiffon ideas became ungainly clouds of fabric. Muddling the impact of the show, and like November Rain leading to a less than happy denouement.
Jonathan Simkhai: Lovingly lacy
This season, Jonathan Simkhai found his initial inspiration from a silk petal that fell from a family album. It was once attached to the dress his mother wore on her wedding day in 1972.
It was a subtle stimulus and it led to a charming collection made principally in cream, white and ecru, with dashes of orange and black. Jaunty coats, boleros, peplums and snug bra tops all finished with fabric petals, flowers and roses.
Simkhai blended in panels of lace and guipure adding a haute romantic touch. Though the mood remained chic and sophisticated and never saccharine. All the time tapping into the DNA of his family, who owned a lace mill in Iran.
A tremendously polished statement presented early Saturday morning on the 100th floor of the latest towering New York skyscraper – the Edge at 30 Hudson Yards. Unfortunately, a huge pale gray cloud engulfed the building just as the show began, so one could barely see even a passing drone outside.
Leaving one to focus on this composed and classy collection, that earned hug applause as Jonathan and his mum took a joint bow at the finale.
Sergio Hudson
No show in New York has such a sense of fete and celebration as Sergio Hudson, who served guests perfectly poured Old Fashioned cocktails at his show.
Presented in a show space in Murray Hill, before an audience that whopped and cheered along practically every look, the better to enjoy every moment.
A very glam collection albeit a rather reined-in one – starring crisp pants suits in brown and black chalk-stripes or canary yellow wool; sequined tanks worn over twill mannish pants; and va va vroom pastel sequined columns.
Presented on a great cast that included a trio of veterans, the inimitable Vanessa Webb, an old favorite of Karl Lagerfeld; sad eyed Vlada Roslyakova and quirky Dutch beauty Jessica Stam.
The mood set by jazz classics like Nancy Wilson’s ‘The Good Life’, and the classy cocktails. Climaxing with extended applause of the famously generous Hudson. Guests left with gift bags that contained scented candles and pint bottles of excellent Woodford Reserve Kentucky bourbon. Etched, of course, with the designer’s name.
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