Napapijri prioritises brand experience over transactions, says CEO Silvia Onofri

During the latest Paris Fashion Week, Italian sportswear brand Napapijri, whose logo incorporates the flag of Norway, organised an event at the creative office of Korean outdoor equipment brand Helinox, in collaboration with NSS magazine. The event, simply billed ‘Napapijri Is Back’, marked the first step in the come-back of the brand owned since 2004 by US group VF Corp.

Napapijri was founded in 1987 in the shadow of the Alps by businesswoman Giuliana Rosset, and was extremely popular in France and Italy in the 2010s. In recent years, Napapijri has restructured its organisation and attempted to tweak its market positioning in various ways. Its main commercial best-seller remains the Skidoo all-weather jacket, but Napapijri has also experimented by developing more sustainable products.

CEO Silvia Onofri joined the brand in early 2023, while VF Corp. was in the midst of an organisational overhaul. She intends to give new impetus to Napapijri, tapping the luxury industry experience she acquired during stints at Bally and Bulgari. In just a few months, Napapijri has revamped its corporate image, named British designer Christopher Raeburn, who has formerly worked with Timberland, as creative director, and opened several new stores, notably in Vienna and Madrid.

FashionNetwork.com: As an executive experienced in the luxury sector, what is your vision for Napapijri?
Silvia Onofri: Since I joined 18 months ago, my priority has been to ensure that the brand’s authentic philosophy is evident and consistent in every product in our collections, that archive items are the starting point for new creative ideas, and that our communication conveys the brand’s true message, through content that is relevant for the community that chooses [Napapijri].
 
FNW: As the CEO, how are you going to build the next stage in the brand’s evolution
SO: We find ourselves in a situation where technical expertise is no longer enough, one in which CEOs need to support their brands in moments of self-reflection. This is actually one of the aspects that most clearly defines my mandate. For a long time, I’ve adopted as my work’s starting point the fact that it’s a privilege for designers to embody a brand’s language. Today, I firmly believe that CEOs should do the same, imbuing their vision and leadership with their brand’s essence.

FNW: Which elements from Napapijri’s history will you keep, and which will you add?
SO: Our brand’s roots and values are the starting point and inspiration not only for our designers, but for all those within the company who are rediscovering the Napapijri archives as its genuine research lab. Exploration, a passion for the unexpected, an innate sense of creativity – these elements are an integral part of Napapijri’s roots, they form the foundation on which we’re building its future.
 
The Fall/Winter 2024-25 ‘Future Heritage’ collection encapsulates a strong emotional charge, because it connects the brand’s beginnings to its future in an original way that is faithful to its DNA. The very choice of our ambassadors, a mother and her son, beyond their renown, evokes the transmission of memories that translate into a vision of the future: The experience of the future takes the form of a return to exploration, to powerful colours and materials unearthed from the Napapijri archives, tapping their plethora of unexpected details and well-known shapes, which seem obvious to those familiar with them.

FNW: In France, the brand used to have a solid retail network, which in recent years was significantly downsized. What is Napapijri’s footprint in France and Europe? And which role does retail distribution play in your strategies?
SO: Our retail landscape has evolved significantly in recent years. We have shifted from a traditional brick-and-mortar expansion model to a more dynamic, phygital approach. In France, we have consolidated our physical presence: It was a strategic decision in line with our broader European vision. Today, our approach is much more selective and targeted.
 
We’re focusing on creating retail outlets that are more than just stores, but experiential hubs capable of interpreting our brand values and connecting with consumers at a deeper level. Our retail strategy now includes a mix of carefully selected flagship stores, pop-up stores in strategic locations, and a network of monobrand and multibrand partners.

This segmentation strategy allows us to maintain our presence while being more agile and responsive to market dynamics. For the brand, the role of retail has evolved from that of pure distribution point to a crucial touchpoint in the customer’s omni-channel journey.
 
Our physical spaces are now platforms for brand storytelling, customer engagement and unique experiences that complement our digital presence. By balancing these two aspects, we ensure that Napapijri remains accessible and relevant to our consumers.

FNW: Are you planning to open new international flagships?
SO: From today we will be focusing on Milan, Paris and London, as well as expanding into new markets outside Europe.

FNW: Have you developed a new approach for your multibrand partners?
SO: Fall/Winter 2024-25 marked a new milestone for us, as Napapijri made a decisive come-back to high-profile retailers such as Harrods, Flannels and Galeries Lafayette. It’s not just a question of distribution, it’s a fundamental change in our approach. We’ve prioritised brand experience over transactions, focusing on creating engaging environments and narratives that go beyond a product-centric message. Our business strategy has evolved to prioritise storytelling. By opening pop-up stores and showcasing the brand in premium locations, we’re promoting our ethics and heritage alongside our products.

FNW: What about your online strategy? How much is e-tail worth for Napapijri?
SO: E-tail accounts for about 10% of our business. We’re investing strategically in digital innovation, including 3D and AI technologies, to improve product accessibility and the customer experience.
 
In our omni-channel approach, digital is an essential complement to physical retail, both in our own stores and in our partners’. The synergy between digital and physical retail is critical to our future growth and our ability to meet changing customer expectations.

FNW: Gorpcore is a strong trend. But Napapijri’s image is that of an urban brand with an outdoor aesthetic. Can it compete with brands that have greater performance know-how?
SO: Napapijri thrives at the intersection of urban style and outdoor functionality. We’ve deliberately positioned ourselves in this niche, creating a distinctive category that I’d define as urban lifestyle inspired by the great outdoors. Our customers appreciate performance features, but want them to be seamlessly integrated into designs that are consistent with a city environment. This is where Napapijri excels. Embracing our position as pioneers in the urban-outdoor space, we’re creating our own distinctive narrative, rather than following others in the pure-performance arena. This authenticity is in tune with our community, which sees the outdoor spirit as part of their lifestyle, not just of their activities.

FNW: In recent years, the brand has had to work hard to rebuild itself. What is the future of Napapijri, and who are its customers?
SO: We’re creating the kind of cultural storytelling that can resonate deeply with our community, extending well beyond fashion’s traditional boundaries. We’re building an ecosystem of experiences, content and connections designed to fit neatly into the daily lives of our consumers.
 
In future, we will explore new ways to enrich this cultural narrative, through technological innovations, artistic collaborations and community initiatives. In a world where consumers are increasingly demanding, we believe that building a brand with genuine cultural resonance is not just an aspiration, but an imperative.

FNW: Like Timberland, The North Face or Vans, will you create collections in collaboration with other labels?
SO: Collaborations can potentially tell extraordinary stories in which two worlds boost each other. Partnerships are a key strategic element in a brand’s journey. However, I believe that collaborations can be original, credible and coherent only when a real alchemy exists between the partners.
 
FNW: What are your key markets and what are your positioning and sales goals?
SO: Italy remains our main market. In Italy, the Napapijri brand has great cultural significance, going beyond mere fashion: We are part of the cultural fabric, notably embodying the 90s and 2000s zeitgeist. The UK and France are our other major markets. Our strategic goal in these key markets is clear: We focus on improving our brand positioning without significantly changing prices. Our goal is to improve brand desirability and relevance by introducing a wealth of content and rich storytelling, essentially bringing Napapijri back into the market’s premium segment.
 
This approach allows us to maintain our core customer base while attracting new consumers who appreciate our heritage and value proposition. By balancing our long-established presence and our contemporary relevance, we can ensure that Napapijri will remain ambitious and accessible in these key markets.