Talking about Look 25, a black linen blend jumpsuit with a sleeveless jacket worn with a crisp poplin shirt, Ladislav Zdút spouted a quote from Pina Bausch: “Dance, dance, otherwise we are lost.” There’s a lot to unpack here. To begin with, it wasn’t difficult to make a connection between this ensemble, one of the most clean-lined in the collection, and the rigor of the dancer and choreographer’s work, which incorporated elements of ritual, as does Nehera’s spring look book. Photographed in a labyrinthine maze in a corn field near Bratislava with a trio of models, the aim, said Zdút, was to evoke the power of sisterhood; the team interpreted Bausch’s sentiment as an invitation to “put the hair down from time to time and dance.”
There was a lot of airiness to be found in Nehera’s spring line-up, which featured many A-line silhouettes and fullness to balance the signature tailored elements. So slip shirts fell in a natural drape below the hem of a jacket, and palazzo pants had deep slits. Pulled from the archive, an N logo from 1931 was used on pajama-like separates. Zdút described the palette as “dreamy, romantic, slightly blurred.” The idea was to capture that “stereoscopic effect” of turning to look at something after one’s eyes have been exposed to the sun. A double dying process was used on a pretty checked dress with a languid scarf detail in order to give materiality to that concept.
Linen, noted Zdút is “traditional to Slovakia,” and many variants were used here; at times crushed, or in twill and jersey varieties. The collection also made use of tropical wool and more papery poplins. Those textures supported a mood of expansiveness that breezed through a collection designed to deliver what Zdút dubbed “comfidence”—a combination of “comfort with confidence.”