Even though one associates Alessandro Dell’Acqua with a certain style of bourgeois femininity — seen in the sensual shapes of his signature pencil skirts, nods to lingerie, retro vibes and penchant for black and nude tones — there’s always a practicality to his aesthetic. A seasoned designer, he knows that in pre-collections it’s even more important to maintain a balance between integrity of vision and commercial demands.
With this in mind, the designer conjured a pretty resort 2025 collection in which he wanted “to merge couture volumes with a casual mood.” As a result, his woman was part tomboy and part bonton queen, with the former expressed in workwear references and the latter in puffy volumes and bows galore.
A plethora of little black dresses, dainty laced frocks and balloon skirts mingled with oversize cotton trenchcoats, mannish parkas and cargo pants, often worn together for greater contrast.
Duchesse played a big role, as Dell’Acqua deployed it not only to craft the feminine silhouettes but also to offer his more elevated take on bowling shirts, pocketed miniskirts and cargo knickerbockers accessorized with statement gold-ball chains for a bold touch. A chiffon pleated skirt that was coated for a shiny, sleek effect was cool in its simplicity.
Other textures ran the gamut from the thickness of knitted suits cut in micro proportions and chunky cardigans to the lightness of a slipdress pairing a floral-printed front with a black back and a series of breezy caped gowns in solid colors or a micro flower pattern. “I think mixing is the best way for me to create those errors from which come interesting things. And not only in fashion,” the designer concluded.