Berlin-based design duo Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient showed a collection with bite for spring, reorienting the brand’s deconstructed DNA to upend shapes.
Collars were displaced or wrapped around the body, presented in off-kilter style, with sweatshirts and outerwear moved around and mashed up for a bit of unbalance on the body.
Scuba pants made for leggings and bikini bottoms were cut criss-crossed and daringly, and traditional bra top hooks were replaced with nylon snap straps. Jackets with exaggerated funnel necks added volume and a much needed balance.
The designers said they wanted to convey adventure with the collection and it certainly had a sense of daring — even more so as the models emerged from the jaws of a giant shark onto the makeshift runway in a disused parking garage.
With big hair and a glamorous edge, the show was dedicated to empowered women who want to have fun. “She’s just like a superhero. We fell like in everyday life we have to survive so many things, in general, and we have to fight for so much,” said Gadient backstage after the show. The hero still standing at the end of a shark movie embodied this notion for the designers.
The collection is performing most strongly in the U.S., Bösch said. “I think it’s sexiness in the cozy fabrics, the shapes we are using are not so strict, and the projection is more like a leisure lifestyle,” she said of its appeal. “And maybe, like, we’re not so French.”
It was enough to get singer Normani to the front row, who snapped pics in front of the very Instagrammable art installation.
The new collection also debuted a collaboration with Hood By Air creative director Shayne Oliver called Ottonymous, which appeared as bum bags, as well as a collaboration by Ecco Kollektive on rhinestone-studded sandals and trainers.
An emphasis on accessories also debuted a handbag complete with dangling shark charms, cementing the line’s sense of humor.
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