Pure London x JATC offers more modernity and diversity

Pure London x JATC continued the successful combo show format at London’s Olympia this week with a strong turnout from UK and international retailers, as well as from independents, e-tailers and department stores.

They included ASOS, John Lewis, Urban Outfitters, N.Shelley, Javelin, Ruby Room, Masion Quattro, Belle & Blossom, Sass & Edge, Jarrolds, The Mercantile London, Pamela Shiffer and plenty of others.

The overriding impression from buyers was that they liked the freshness of the show.

John Lewis’s Bimbola Akinloye praised the “great mix of mid-to-luxury brands, and very engaging brands. I love the diverse mix of categories and some of the smaller independent brands. We have connected with new brands and highlighted some that we are going to follow and watch for the future”.

And Calla Rae of ASOS highlighted how the e-tail giant “really likes the presence of younger brands within the POP section. We loved Project x Paris which we felt were very relevant for our Gen Z customer. Overall, we thought the show was much more modern this season, and very relevant for us. There is also more diversity across the show from plus-size and occasionwear”.

As for the labels on show, Alexandra Manescu, Creative Director of Alexandra Revas, said the company came back after getting a strong reception in February. But the reception this time was even better: “The UK buyers and market are really appreciating quality, they are really responding to us as a designer-led brand and they understand our price point which is key. We have been very happy with the calibre of buyers we have seen.”

Meanwhile, Bertie and Bert is a label that’s less than three years old and was a first-timer at the event. Mitty Leach from the company said it had had “a great response to our resort, lifestyle swim, accessories and luxury comfort towelling collections. The contacts we have made are invaluable and we’ve taken some lovely orders and met some fantastic likeminded businesses and inspiring businesswomen”.

Another newcomer, Jacqui Bennett, CEO of Keyah Muti, admitted breaking into the business “can be difficult, but I love the creativity of the fashion industry… For my first trade show, it’s been really amazing. The collection has been very well received by visitors, and the energy is fantastic. Sustainability is at the heart of what we do, as a circular brand, we’ve been very pleased with the show’s content on circularity”. That clearly synced with the brand’s fashion offer — for instance, one of its pieces is a Swiss military army jacket circa 1950’s and another a genuine Italian military parka.

Catwalk trends

The event also featured its regular runway programme and the trends identified here (by its new trend partner, Trendhub by BDA London) included “Womanhood which celebrates the triumphs, resilience, and unwavering spirit of women; Cultivate which focuses on hand-crafted designs that boast exquisite attention to detail; Collective where the focus lies in clean, precise silhouettes, creating a streamlined aesthetic that stands the test of time; and Illusory [that] looks to the limitless possibilities of the virtual world, which allow us to transcend physical boundaries and truly escape”.

What that boils down to in practice for Womanhood is a rich colour palette of teals, deep maroons, and hints of buttered yellow to meld strength with softness, celebrating complex feminine beauty.

Cultivate meanwhile comes with muted hues of earth tones alongside dusky rose and sky blue. The garments are designed “to enhance understanding and appreciation of harmonious living with nature, seamlessly blending practicality with elegance”.

For Collective, it’s all about revitalising minimalism through “the raw power of materials, embracing transparency and authenticity. A sophisticated, pared-back aesthetic rules, with wearable and compelling garments, subtly infused with indulgent details. This trend highlights the beauty of simplicity and the strength of collective creativity”.

And Illusory draws on “a free spirit” plus AI and technology that “converge to craft immersive experiences with lifelike elements, creating illusions with an ethereal palette. Blending shades of blue and green with whispers of red and yellow, the trend offers a serene and otherworldly ambience, exploring new dimensions of style and self-expression and encouraging individuals to escape into augmented realms”.

Expert insights

As for the other stage-based events at the show — the panel discussions and speakers — the programme included some major hot topics.

Nobody’s Child founder Andrew Xeni discussed the evolution of technology in retail, particularly his firm’s Digital Product Passport tech.

He said: “Digital Product Passports (DPP) offer huge opportunities for brands and retailers to speak to consumers more honestly, to rationalise processes, and convert this into a commercial opportunity with consumers.  With DPP, customers are not only presented with transparent information building brand trust, but it also opens a direct dialogue with customers. Circularity is the future of fashion, and having a DPP for the initial manufacture of a product is key for the next steps on a products circularity journey.”

And given the huge growth of social commerce, Maddie Forman, Fashion Merchant Growth Lead at TikTok Shop, talked to visitors about how to start selling on TikTok Shop — understanding the opportunity, implementing set-up, and strategies for success.