Róisín Pierce, Yves Salomon, Duran Lantink, Zomer, Sirivannavari and Tony Ward

Even if one stayed up 24 hours a day it would be hard to capture one third of all the brand shows in Paris this season. Here are six that had impact: Róisín Pierce, Yves Salomon, Duran Lantink, Zomer, Sirivannavari and Tony Ward.
 

Róisín Pierce: Poetic dressing in a Beaux Arts embassy

A poetic moment at Róisín Pierce, the young Irish designer whose delicate vision and dexterous skills mark her out as a must-see collection in Paris.
 
Presented inside the Irish Embassy, this collection of crocheted couture felt very at home within a beautiful Beaux Arts mansion completed in 1892.

Using her signature quatrefoil motif, in crocheted dresses, overlaid with organza, Pierce created a hazy aura that was rather magical.
 
Her inspiration was a poem she co-authored with writer Michelle Freya entitled O lovely one, a girl that fell from a star, and the result was a moment of grace amid the teeming gray rain of March 1st in Paris.
 
Made principally in pristine white and faded Wedgewood blue her long dresses and gowns undulate, ruffle, swoop and entangle the torso with a certain joy. Pierce plays with chunks of lace, translucent organza, hand crocheted scallops and spins embroidery to create phantasmagoric but always tender fantasies.
 
Sourced from recycled satin, St Gallen guipure lace, pleated Georgette and Irish crochet lace, Pierce’s clothes are ethereal, and perhaps a tricky wear. But if she can decline her vision into more approachable ready-to-wear, she will have huge influence going forward.
 

Yves Salomon: Shearling chic

One French brand always worth checking out is Yves Salomon, a brilliant furrier who has stayed a step ahead of the curve with his fabric innovations.
 
His key theme this season for women was a whole new selection of brilliant shearlings made to look like real fur. By ironing and teasing shearling, Salomon managed to make it look like shaved mink, seen in some great new pale gray boleros and excellent collarless redingotes. All finished inside with their own putty hued leather. 
 
Also presented inside his rue Castiglione showroom, with its mid-century modern furniture, hung several great bombers and long coats in cheetah print, which again turned out to be neatly dyed and teased shearling. Think Jessica Lange or Faye Dunaway cutting a swathe through Studio 54 or the Hamptons and you have a good idea.
 

Duran Lantink: Padded in the Palais de Tokyo

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One could not fault Duran Lantink for lacking self-confidence. 
 
The young designer – and LVMH Prize semi-finalist – staged his latest show inside the Palais de Tokyo, and every critic of note showed up to check his temperature.
 
Duran’s big idea is undulating silhouettes and molding shapes. He pads pretty much everything, and the result is a very strong signature look.
 
He has such a sudden high profile, he was able to open his show with Rianne van Rompaey the Dutch model who stars in multiple Chanel campaigns. The red-haired super appearing in a russet red knit jersey dress, padded to suggest her boobs had become bulbous power shoulders. 
 
Inflated skill gray parkas; body stockings with blown up pecs; and matelassé leotards with patched pockets all packed punch.
 
That said, his range felt a tad restricted, as if he were always cracking the same joke. Hence, if he can think of a different visual pun next season, we’ll know if Duran is not just a one-trick pony. 

Zomer: Appropriate appropriation

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Cultural appropriation but in a cool way at Zomer, a witty and agreeably weird brand led by a friendly design duo which has been embraced by Paris.
 
So self-effacing the Zomer designers, Tatar-origin Danial Aitouganov and Dutch-Caribbean Imruh Asha hired two elderly gents – one black, the other white in contrasting polkadot shirts to receive the audience’s applause after their show in the Palais de Tokyo.
 
When two naïve editors asked the older gents what was the starting point of the creative process, one replied: “How would I know, they only hired me 48 hours ago!”
 
But the collection clearly referenced Italian artist Lucio Fontana’s slash paintings, with vertically slashed open top coats and featured a great series of boldly colorful t-mesh mock body stockings that were something else. As were the beaded wedges which rattled amusingly with each step down the runway of the Palais de Tokyo.
 

Sirivannavari : Princess and tailor 

Sirivannavari is a Thai princess who has worked pretty darned hard to become a designer, and judging from her latest collection shown in Place Vendôme it was well worth the effort.
 
Siri as most pals call her has done stints with some of the best, including Paco Rabanne and Christian Dior, back when John Galliano was in his pomp, after attending the best fashion school in her native Thailand.
 
In her latest collection, presented on mannequins inside the Hotel Evreux mansion, HRH Sirivannavari Nariratana impressed most of all with her precise suits. Made of Italian cashmeres and fine wools, and echoing 1930 heroes like Humphrey Bogart the range of chalk-striped wrap or single-breasted power-shoulder jackets and flared pants looked great. Finished with a cutaway hem and a single gold button they boast real distinction. Few better than the one she was wearing herself.
 
In a full wardrobe, Siri also showed silver body suits with Thai style shawls and wraps; anthracite blousons with cut out shoulders – that recalled Madame Grès – and some fine pointillist silk dresses in burgundy paired with riding boots. 
 
All told, a noble fashion concept by a proper princess.
 

Tony Ward: Celestial Voyage

Tony Ward is a Lebanese designer who principally shows during couture. But one could catch his latest ready-to-wear in his showroom on Faubourg St Honoré. It’s a nice address, nestled between the Paris flagships of Hermès, Prada and Berluti.
 
Ward likes a grand statement. For next winter he showed sculptural suits with optional belts with his T logo buckles; classy cargo trousers in soie mélangé paired with transparent chemises. Also admirable were this beige cotton gabardine safaris finished in light chocolate hued lace; or cunningly draped sandy colored crepe dresses, slit up the thigh. 
 
For evening, Ward had multiple options – mid-length kimono-style robes with oversized pouches, and some great big cat crepe gowns. Definite head turners.
 
All seen in a striking Sunset Safari ad campaign, shot in a studio in Beirut, but with huge desert backgrounds, as if the whole cast could have been camping in the Sahara. A celestial voyage if ever there was one.