A new wave of romanticism hit Milan this fashion week — and retailers approve.
Coupled with archival designs from Gucci and Roberto Cavalli, retailers praised Italian craftsmanship, including delicate lace, rich fringing and textures, and standout embellishments.
“They hailed the return of the skirt and of the dress in a more ladylike style, and the palette of soft pastels, floral motifs and ribbed knits, while brands also showed oversize boxy blazers, contrasting with narrower silhouettes. There were plenty of 1920s flapper-style dresses, and a noticeable lightness in the collections through sheer organza and chiffon designs,” wrote Milan bureau chief Luisa Zargani.
This idea of femininity translated in an array of different trends, from sequins and embellishments to ethereal transparencies and pastel colors. The ladylike, 1920s concepts that started last season, returned this season with an abundance of flapper dresses, art deco motifs and a lots of fringe.
Here is a deeper look at what retailers thought about Milan Fashion Week trends:
Sheer Transparencies
“There was a noticeable lightness in the collections, with sheer organza and chiffon being more apparent,” said Simon Longland, the director of buying, fashion at Harrods.
“Sheer dressing also continues with light and breezy layers,” echoed Jodi Kahn, vice president, luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus.
Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director of accessories and beauty at Bloomingdale’s, said, “Almost every show had sheerness and transparency across a range of silhouettes.”
Sequins and Embellishments
A new take on sequins and embellishment was also mentioned as a message for the season as the fashion director of Holt Renfrew, Joseph Tang confirmed. “The unexpected elements made this trend prevalent, with sequin cocktail dresses styled with nylon anoraks or opulent ball skirts paired with T-shirts,” he said.
“Radiant textures took the spotlight, from Bottega Veneta’s lustrous textural gown to Gucci’s sparkling embellished coats and paillette dress, culminating in Prada’s show stopping dress encrusted with sequins, crystals and mirrors,” continued Rickie De Sole, vice president and fashion director at Nordstrom.
Pastel Colors
Linda Fargo, the senior vice president and fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, stated, “The misty pastels here started an important Milan color trend.”
“Jil Sander’s pastel knitted sets — an essential for any summer wardrobe,” said Kate Benson, buying director at Net-a-porter. Marissa Galante Frank, the fashion director of accessories and beauty at Bloomingdale’s, called out “candy-colored pastels: pistachio, pink, icy blue, butter yellow. Chocolate brown.”
Fringes
“The Attico standout collection — the cargo jacket with a silver fishtail skirt and the crystal fringe dress are knockouts,” said Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director at Saks. “The Great Escape, a glorious splendor of fringe, soft ruffles, botanical prints, luxe linens and a nod to nautical inspirations, perfect for the global traveler,” Tang stated.
Ruffles
“One must-have item is Bottega Veneta’s tangerine ruffle skirt look,” Patel said.
Lingerie and Lace
Another one of the trends spotted by Fargo, during this season were “lingerie elements.”
“Transparency and embellishment at Fendi and Sportmax paired with lingerie and lace at Dolce & Gabbana and The Attico,” according to Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps.
1920s Inspirations
“Fendi opened the week on a high note for us with a calming and technically rich collection referencing its 1920s origins,” Fargo said. “The trends as they were seen included 1920s flapper-style dresses, dresses in general in fact, and an overall shift away from tailoring,” Longland stated. Khan added “Fendi celebrating 100 years of the brand looked back to the 1920s for inspiration was a beautiful start, it was feminine, delicate and sensual in a wearable way.”