Simon Cracker, Magliano, and Martine Rose

Alongside the major fashion houses, the new creative guard is making its presence felt in Milan with captivating and unique collections for Spring/Summer 2025. On Sunday, three emerging labels gained significant attention: the entirely upcycled alternative brand Simon Cracker, the increasingly sophisticated Magliano, and British designer Martine Rose, presenting in Milan for the first time.
 

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Simon Cracker kicked off the day with a vibrant, sporty collection in black, mauve, pool blue, and acid green. The garments were crafted and then airbrushed with dyes, resulting in unique effects depending on the fabric, sometimes appearing faded or splattered.

Beneath this apparent lightness lied a reflection on the profound divisions affecting the world. “The collection is titled “A Matter of Principle” because this argument usually puts an end to all discussions that lead to escalating violence. With what’s happening in the world, it would be irresponsible not to be political at this moment,” explained Filippo Biraghi, the brand’s coordinator, and Simone Botte, who founded the label in 2010 with a commitment to 100% upcycling.

To convey this message, they used knots as a metaphor for both connection and obstruction. They utilized a stockpile of recovered laces to tie pieces of fabric together or to reconstruct entirely unstitched jackets. The lace wraps around the neck as a cowboy tie, adorns earrings, or cinches the waist as a belt. It also transforms into fringes on a top or is woven as embroidery in a crocheted knit.

This season, Simon Cracker gained access to unsold and dormant stock from Australian, one of the last 100% made-in-Italy sports brands. This treasure trove allowed the creators to reinvent sweatpants and use polo collars to create banded tops and skirts. They also playfully added small children’s knits to the fronts of shirts as decoration.

The brand announced two collaborations: one with Dr. Martens for footwear and another with Australian. “We created an eight-piece capsule with sweaters, t-shirts, tracksuits, caps, and swimwear. For the first time, we will commercialize garments that can be reproduced,” highlighted the duo, who typically produce unique pieces distributed to around 15 multi-brand clients, mainly vintage stores, but also a few high-end boutiques like Penelope in Brescia.
 

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Magliano also explored the theme of the knot, featuring it in shawls cinched at the waist, adorning cardigan pockets, and formed within the fabric of some denim and flannel jackets. Additionally, a fine cord cinched drawstring trousers, from classic pleated styles to joggers. This knot represents a guiding thread for designer Luca Magliano, reflecting on “intimate and elusive” memories of coming of age and discovering homosexuality and the Queer world. “The knot symbolises a crossing or tightening between two opposites.”

This summer wardrobe marks a significant step for the house with a clear move upmarket through a more defined proposition. The design remains recognizable but is more refined and precise, far from the underground, imperfect looks of previous seasons. The collection features essential monochrome pieces, impeccably cut from beautiful materials, although it seems to have lost Luca Magliano’s acerbic humor.

Hints of this humor remain in details like a pastel-colored candy necklace, a t-shirt featuring a chattering rat struck by lightning, a woven wicker ring belt, industrial gloves worn opera-style, and a snake smoking a joint on a mohair sweater. Notably, the knitwear results from a collaboration with Jezabelle Cormio of the label Cormio.
 
Magliano’s signature style is fully present in this collection: drawstring pleated trousers, elongated double-breasted jackets, long coats, lightweight jackets, and silk shirts unbuttoned to the navel. But everything is more sophisticated, from the leather belt cinching a jogger to pinstripe Bermuda shorts and a chic travel bag with micro-patterns, to a gray fleece sweater transformed into a collarless zipped cardigan with large pockets.

The impact of a new partner is evident. Magliano joined forces with Underscore District, a digital fashion business accelerator led by Edoardo Di Luzio, in January 2023. They created a new company, sharing ownership with manufacturer Arcari e Co from Faenza as a minority shareholder.
 

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Among Magliano’s creations, a mosaic shirt featuring small black-and-white portraits stood out. A similar model was offered by Martine Rose, linking London and Milan. The British-Jamaican designer made her debut on Sunday with her first true show in another fashion capital, despite having shown in Italy at Pitti Uomo in January 2023 and presenting a film in Paris last January.

Martine Rose’s menswear brand, owned by Tomorrow, aims to increase visibility among buyers as it begins to structure its merchandising with a focus on accessories and developing a women’s line, as illustrated by this collection’s series of bags and numerous women’s pieces. Showing right after Prada, and in a more commercial and formal Italian context, Martine Rose, known for her sporty, street, and workwear styles inspired by subcultures and the nineties, opted for contrasts to make a statement.

A dark hangar with stadium tracks and stands, illuminated by blinding spotlights, evoked an underground concert hall. Strange figures with long prosthetic noses and flowing hair down to their lower backs emerged. Styles clashed between masculine and feminine, street and formal, leather and flannel. The look was spiced up with “porno chic” accessories like thigh-high fishnet socks and leather codpieces over classic trousers.

Leather pieces were abundant, from trousers to jackets and bermudas, paired with more traditional menswear (shirt-tie and double-breasted jacket or tartan boxers). Satin appeared in caressing shirts, a long robe coat, and a slip dress. Jackets, blazers, and trench coats were tucked into trousers, while jeans featured an additional zip alongside the traditional button fly. So much more practical!